Latest recipes

24 Bottles That Demonstrate the Variety and Bounty of American Wine

24 Bottles That Demonstrate the Variety and Bounty of American Wine


We are searching data for your request:

Forums and discussions:
Manuals and reference books:
Data from registers:
Wait the end of the search in all databases.
Upon completion, a link will appear to access the found materials.

As the harvest of the 2016 vintage winds down to a close in vineyards from California to New York, Washington State to Virginia, we can celebrate it with recent releases from previous vintages.

Pour a glass, close your eyes, and imagine the smell of fermenting grapes from coast to coast.

Franciscan Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ($13). Nice, tangy fruit, good acidity, and a taste of bitters around the edges, partly from the wine having additional skin contact — less common these days for white wines than it used to be — and moderate herbaceousness. Quite enjoyable.

Priest Ranch Napa Valley Grenache Blanc 2015 ($20). Lots of flavors of peach and apricot, white pepper, and light bitters with good finishing acidity.

Flora Springs Soliloquy Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ($22). Full, very fruity, and a tad toward the sweet side with some savory notes.

Franciscan Equilibrium Napa Valley White 2015 ($23). Sauvignon blanc-dominated with minor amounts of chardonnay and muscat canelli, it’s a quite expressive wine with very good, lightly perfumed fruit, nice mouthfeel, and good structure.

Quivira “Fig Tree” Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ($24). Very grassy and Marlborough-like in its lean structure and fruit-forward flavors.

Stinson Monticello Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ($24). Lots of lime, yet not overly tart; crisp with medium body and good mineral notes.

Gloria Ferrer Carneros Chardonnay 2014 ($25). Rich and spicy with good flavors of crisp apple flesh and peel.

Bouchaine Napa Valley Pinot Gris 2015 ($30). Interesting savory flavors, though could be a bit livelier.

Treana Central Coast Blanc 2014 ($30). A blend of mostly viognier and marsanne, this is a lovely wine with tropical fruits, lots of vanilla and spices, and a long, lean finish.

Gary Farrell Russian River Selection Chardonnay 2014 ($35). A big wine with a fair amount of wood, if a little short on charm.

Michael Mondavi Family “Animo” Heritage Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2014 ($65). The best Napa sauvignon blanc I’ve tasted in a long time — a delicious combination of floral and herbal flavors that is full-bodied and well-structured; for sipping or with heavier fish and poultry dishes.

Stinson Virginia Cabernet Franc 2014 ($25). Well-balanced with bright cherry fruit and some creaminess.

Gloria Ferrer Carneros Pinot Noir 2013 ($27). Medium body, good balance with warm, rooty, spicy flavors.

Michael Mondavi Family “Emblem” Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ($35). A softer cab with mulberry and muddled fruit flavors along with distinct dusty tannins — not the typical Napa cab profile.

Stinson Monticello Tannat 2013 ($36). Tannat generally has bitter edges — part of its attraction — and here they are met with lively red fruits and food-loving acidity.

L’Ecole No. 41 Estate Walla Walla Valley Merlot 2013 ($38). A lot like a St-Émilion, moderately full, and very smooth and mellow with light cherries and a hint of cream.

Bouchaine “Swan Clone” Napa Valley Merlot 2014 ($40). Well-balanced with rich cherry fruit, dusty tannins, and some savory notes.

Flora Springs “Halloween Label” Napa Valley Red 2013 ($40). Quite nice once it gets a little air — red and dark cherries as well as plums, some chocolate, and some cream.

Trefethen Oak Knoll Merlot 2013 ($40). A nice offering with dark cherry flavor, notes of mature oak, and good firm tannins.

Gary Farrell Russian River Selection Pinot Noir 2014 ($45). Ripe yet tart cherry flavor with some cola and rooty notes.

Long Shadows “Pedestal” Columbia Valley Merlot 2013 ($57). A big wine with nice dark berry and powdery chocolate flavors, granular texture, well-integrated tannins, and some finishing savory notes.

SLO Down “Love Hammer” Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ($59). One of those wines where the dark fruit turns into chocolate; a little tangy with noticeable tannins — the kind of rustic wine you could fall in lust with.

Pahlmeyer Napa Valley Merlot 2013 ($84). Tangy, but a large, voluptuous wine with lots of a dark fruits and hints of chocolate; probably a better sip-and-savor than a pure food wine.

Wayfarer Fort Ross-Seaview Pinot Noir 2014 ($88). The emphasis here is on the ripe fruit — full-bodied cherries that are almost plumy — with good woody flavors.


The 2021 Wine Lover&rsquos Guide

The past two decades have seen vast changes in the world of wine. Before 2000, the classics were clear: classified Bordeaux, grand cru Burgundy, top Champagnes, Napa Valley Cabernet, a few others. Now, overlooked grapes like Chenin Blanc are standards, volcanic terroirs are hot spots (literally, for Mount Etna), natural wine provokes passionate debate, and many winemakers well below legal age in 2000 have become top talents in the field. So while the old benchmarks are still vital𠅍on&apost turn down Pétrus if someone hands you a glass—here are the regions, grapes, and trends helping to define the new wine world. Seek them out: They&aposll tell you about what wine is today and where it&aposs headed𠅊nd they also happen to be delicious. —Ray Isle

Mount Etna, Sicily

Make wine on an active volcano? Great idea, if you&aposre after the particular character that volcanic soils give to wine (up until the thing erupts, of course). Etna is one of Italian wine&aposs recent success stories, producing aromatic, detailed reds and stony whites unlike anything else from Sicily—or from Italy at all for that matter. Passopisciaro, an early star, remains so on the strength of wines like its ruby-hued, red currant–rich 2018 Passopisciaro Passorosso ($39).

Bekaa Valley, Lebanon

Lebanon&aposs wine culture is ancient, but American awareness of it has only just started to rise. About time: the Bekaa Valley is an ideal place to grow grapes, with warm days, cool nights, and rocky limestone soils. Start with the 2017 Domaine des Tourelles Red ($20), its succulent black currant and mint notes wrapped up in fine-grained tannins, and then explore other names like Ixsir, Château Kefraya, Château Ksara, Château Marsyas, and of course the groundbreaking Chateau Musar.

The Rocks District, Oregon

If there&aposs an award for most appropriately named wine region, the Rocks District wins it. The surface of this subsection of the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley AVA is covered in fist-size stones. But give Syrah vines a chance to take root and you&aposll get magic in return— black-peppery, powerful, savory reds. Buty Winery blends that Syrah with Cabernet Sauvignon for its alluringly spicy 2016 Buty Rediviva of the Stones ($60).

Sta. Rita Hills, California

The first significant vineyard was planted here in 1971, but budding awareness of how great its Pinot Noirs could be hit in the early 2000s, and now its wines are cool-climate benchmarks. Try the 2016 Brewer-Clifton Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($40) to taste the brambly wild berries and faint salinity that characterize these wines.

Georgia

Archaeological findings near Georgia&aposs capital city of Tbilisi show wine being produced here nearly 8,000 years ago on the other hand, U.S. awareness of Georgian wines dates more to, say, 2010. Traditionally made in huge clay qvevri, these skin-contact whites (i.e., orange wines) and vivid reds thrilled sommeliers when they started to appear here. Track down the savory, amber-hued 2019 Orgo Dila-O Rkatsiteli-Mtsvane ($17) to see why.

Sierra De Gredos, Spain

Mountainous and austere, the Sierra de Gredos region west of Madrid started to gain acclaim 10 years or so ago as a source for gorgeous cool-climate Grenache, as young vintners took inspiration from France&aposs legendary Château Rayas to focus on the variety&aposs transparency and grace. The 2019 Comando G La Bruja de Rozas ($30) is characteristic, with its translucent ruby hue and herb-scented wild strawberry flavors.

Santa Cruz Mountains, California

The Santa Cruz Mountains have a storied winemaking history, but it seems only in recent years that wine lovers have realized how amazing the vineyards are. Whether the region does Pinot, Chardonnay, or Cabernet better is an open question, but there&aposs no doubt that the lemon blossom–scented 2017 Mount Eden Vineyards Estate Chardonnay ($60) is as ageworthy and complex as any great white Burgundy.

The Aubechampagne, France

For a long time, the Aube&aposs grapes were used as anonymous components in big-name brands. But recently, this region in Champagne&aposs far south has exploded into view. The Drappier family, which has been here since 1808, provides a great introduction to the Aube&aposs strengths with the Pinot Noir𠄽riven, nonvintage Champagne Drappier Carte d&aposOr ($49).

Swartland, South Africa

Lying along South Africa&aposs western coast, this region of rolling scrubland is also home to extraordinary old-vine Chenin Blancs, Syrahs, and field blends. The Swartland Revolution group of winemakers ignited awareness, pushing a more elegant style that thrilled wine lovers around the world. Founding members Andrea and Chris Mullineux&aposs 2017 Mullineux Syrah ($38), meaty and white peppery, speaks of the place brilliantly.

England

Fifty years ago, southern England was too cold to ripen Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the varieties used for great sparkling wine. Thirty years ago? Not true any- more. And about 15 years ago, English sparkling took off. The best have thrilling acidity and incredible focus, like the Nyetimber Classic Cuvພ Multi-Vintage ($55). It isn&apost inexpensive, but it rivals similarly priced wines from, you know, those French fellows across the Channel.

Once ignored, now powerhouses: these are today&aposs super-successes.

2001: Malbec

Argentina turned Malbec, once a forgotten variety, into one of the world&aposs most popular wines. The U.S. boom started around 2001. The peppery 2018 Catena Malbec ($24) makes it clear why.

2005: Prosecco

Champagne, elegant Prosecco, fun (and far less pricey). There&aposs the recipe for a jet-powered ascent in popularity. The citrusy NV Nino Franco Rustico ($21) is one of the best around.

2007: Grower Champagne

Grower Champagnes (single-estate, family- owned) hit wine lists in the mid-2000s and have never left. Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Rosé de Saignພ ($110) is a stellar example.

2008: Rosé

Imagine: Before the mid- 2000s, dry rosé wine was a thoroughly dead cat- egory. Whispering Angel Rosé ($25), its 2019 vintage juicy with wild strawberry notes, helped change that forever.

2014: Red Blends

Juicy, ripe, and often with a faint hint of sweetness, red blends stormed supermarket shelves in the 2010s. The Prisoner ($40) is the archetype— and far better than many of its imitators.

One major wine trend over recent years has been what could be called a love affair with the distant past. Sometimes that means rediscovering older winemaking approaches sometimes, vintners rescuing for- gotten grape varieties from near extinction. These four wines are star examples of cutting-edge wine-makers using the best of ancient techniques to make brilliant and boundary-pushing bottles.

Orange Wines

When white grapes ferment on their skins, you get the amber hue and tannic notes of orange wines. In the early 2000s, this ancient approach was picked up by vintners in Italy&aposs Friuli region—the savory 2016 Dario Princic Sivi Pinot ($57) is one stellar example.

Pét-Nats

Gently sparkling, often cloudy with yeast particles, and usually lightly sweet, these quaffable bubblies burst back into view in the 2010s, first from France (pét-nat&aposs homeland) and now from everywhere𠅎ven Texas, with the lively 2019 William Chris Pétillant Naturel ($25).

Forgotten Grapes

Greek Malagousia, Spanish Godello, Italy&aposs Nascetta: these nearly extinct grapes have all been rediscovery success sto- ries, thanks to enterprising wine growers. Try the stony, fragrant 2019 Elvio Cogno Anas-Cëtta ($39) to see what drives the desire to save these varieties.

Historic Vineyards

Morgan Twain-Peterson has been at the forefront of a move- ment to save California&aposs historic vineyards from being plowed under. Visit historicvineyard society.org for a list of these sites, maybe while sipping a glass of his luscious 2019 Bedrock Old Vine Zinfandel ($28).

In the realm of agricultural products, vintners throughout the world have been at the forefront of environmental awareness.

Biodynamics

This organic, quasi-spiritual farming approach, which also produces some very good wines, arrived in the wine world in the late 1960s. But it took the magnetic Loire vintner Nicolas Joly&aposs founding of the Return to Terroir group in 2001 to bring broad awareness to it. His gorgeous, minerally 2016 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulພ de Serrant ($122) is arguably still the defining biodynamic wine.

Natural Wine

Wine&aposs most controversial topic in the past decade, natural wine&aposs credo is best described as "nothing added, nothing removed," meaning as little human intervention as possible. It&aposs a walking-on-the- cliff&aposs-edge approach when things go wrong, weirdness results. But when things go right, as with the 2019 Arianna Occhipinti SP68 Rosso ($36), full of intense wild-berry energy, the results can be brilliant.

Green Wineries

In 2006, Oregon&aposs Stoller Winery earned the first LEED Gold certification in the world, a ground- breaking step in the movement toward sustainable, eco-friendly winery structures𠅊 direction soon followed by many others. Plus, the winery&aposs 2018 Stoller Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($35), with its lovely raspberry fruit and silky texture, shows that doing ecological good is no impediment to making excellent wine.

Grüner Veltliner

Austrian Grüner shot to visibility in the early 2000s but then took a back seat to other hot new varieties. In the 2010s, it rose again. The best Grüners are world-class, and even entry-level wines from top producers, like the flinty, spicy 2019 Alzinger Ried Mühlpoint Federspiel ($29), can be sublime.

Albariño

Minerally, even saline, with flavors that shift with the vintages between riper pineapple and sharper grapefruit, Albariño is one of the world&aposs greatest seafood wines and, at this point, Spain&aposs signature white grape. The 2019 Pazo Señorans ($24)— floral, citrusy, vivid—is a benchmark example.

Chenin Blanc

Never has a grape so con- signed to the realm of "eh, whatever" so completely about-faced into being obsessed over by sommeliers and wine lovers alike. To see why, check out the 2019 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups Remus ($31), with its stony green-apple fruit, from France&aposs Loire Valley.

Assyrtiko

A wave of ambitious wine-makers changed the face of Greek wine in the 1990s, but it took the U.S. until the late 2000s to catch on to exactly how good those wines have become. Try the 2019 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko ($42) the tart citrus flavors contain a hint of seaside salinity. You&aposll be a convert.

Dry Riesling

No, Riesling is not new. But U.S. awareness of the fact that it is not always sweet sure is, ditto that dry Riesling is one of the most versatile wines with food, ever. Head to Germany for affordable bottles from great produc- ers, like the taut, focused 2019 Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken ($28).

Raúl Pérez

No winemaker in Spain has drawn more acclaim in recent years than Raúl Pérez. From his home base in Bierzo, he makes wine throughout northwest Spain to Portugal and beyond, working winemaking magic with Spanish varieties such as Albariño, Godello, Menc໚, and more. His 2018 Raúl Pérez Ultreia Saint Jacques ($20), made from the Menc໚ grape, is one of the best values in wine, period.

Ntsiki Biyela

A college scholarship led Ntsiki Biyela, who grew up in the small village of KwaZulu-Natal, to study winemaking that led to a part-time job at a winery and a post at Stellekaya in Stellenbosch as the first Black woman winemaker in South Africa. There, her wines began to win awards, and today, she runs her own brand, Aslina seek out the cedary, cassis-rich 2019 Aslina Cabernet Sauvignon ($30).

Rolando Herrera

Rolando Herrera makes excellent wine, and he also embodies the American dream. After emigrating from Mexico as a teenager, he got a job as a vineyard worker at Stag&aposs Leap Wine Cellars soon, he was cellar master, and soon after that, he was a winemaker. Today, he owns his own winery, Mi Sueño to taste his work, seek out the lemon-creamy 2017 Mi Sueño Los Carneros Chardonnay ($42).

Sebastián Zuccardi

Think Argentine Malbec has to be big and heavy? Sebastián Zuccardi thinks otherwise. Zuccardi has pushed his family&aposs winery toward using high-altitude vineyards, giving a newfound freshness to their wines, and engaged in exhaustive vineyard studies to allow for distinctive single-vineyard reds. The 2019 Zuccardi Concreto Malbec ($40), floral and peppery, gives a sense of his vision.

Cristiana Tiberio

Abruzzo may be Italy&aposs least known but most exciting wine region one reason for that is Cristiana Tiberio. Her wines have become wine list must-haves in the past few years, particularly her long-aging, single-vineyard Fonte Canale Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo. That wine is pricey, but her basic, citrus-scented 2019 Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo ($20) is also superb and a steal.

Andréa and Robin Mcbride

Here&aposs a fairy-tale: Half sisters Andrບ and Robin McBride grew up separately in Marlborough, New Zealand, and Monterey, California when they met, they found a mutual interest in winemaking. What&aposs no fairy-tale is making it in a business dominated by white men as two Black women: That&aposs where talent, ambition, and incredible drive come in. Seek out their lively 2019 Black Girl Magic Rosé ($20).

Today in Champagne, there are more women chefs des caves and CEOs than ever before, and that&aposs partly thanks to groups such as La Transmission Femmes en Champagne. As Anne Malassagne of Champagne A.R. Lenoble, one of the group&aposs cofounders, says, "I took over our estate from my father in 1993, [and] I had to fight for many years to acquire legitimacy and to gain credibility. It seemed obvious to me that I had a responsibility to help other women in Champagne." She&aposs joined in La Transmission by Vitalie Taittinger, co-owner of Champagne Taittinger Maggie Henriquez, CEO of Champagne Krug and many others. Check out their organization at la-transmission-champagne.com, possibly while sipping a glass of the minerally NV Champagne A.R. Lenoble Rosé Terroirs Chouilly-Bisseuil ($63)—an inspiring wine, for sure.

If there&aposs one stylistic trend that has marked the past seven or eight years, it&aposs a turn away from high-alcohol, super-ripe wines—red or white—toward lighter, more savory styles. Cooler-climate regions earlier harvesting renewed attention paid to wines like򠯪ujolais, once out of fashion for its lightness, and classic Napa Valley producers known more for balance than massiveness. well. Elegance is in, as these four paradigm-shifting categories amply demonstrate. Read More.


The 2021 Wine Lover&rsquos Guide

The past two decades have seen vast changes in the world of wine. Before 2000, the classics were clear: classified Bordeaux, grand cru Burgundy, top Champagnes, Napa Valley Cabernet, a few others. Now, overlooked grapes like Chenin Blanc are standards, volcanic terroirs are hot spots (literally, for Mount Etna), natural wine provokes passionate debate, and many winemakers well below legal age in 2000 have become top talents in the field. So while the old benchmarks are still vital𠅍on&apost turn down Pétrus if someone hands you a glass—here are the regions, grapes, and trends helping to define the new wine world. Seek them out: They&aposll tell you about what wine is today and where it&aposs headed𠅊nd they also happen to be delicious. —Ray Isle

Mount Etna, Sicily

Make wine on an active volcano? Great idea, if you&aposre after the particular character that volcanic soils give to wine (up until the thing erupts, of course). Etna is one of Italian wine&aposs recent success stories, producing aromatic, detailed reds and stony whites unlike anything else from Sicily—or from Italy at all for that matter. Passopisciaro, an early star, remains so on the strength of wines like its ruby-hued, red currant–rich 2018 Passopisciaro Passorosso ($39).

Bekaa Valley, Lebanon

Lebanon&aposs wine culture is ancient, but American awareness of it has only just started to rise. About time: the Bekaa Valley is an ideal place to grow grapes, with warm days, cool nights, and rocky limestone soils. Start with the 2017 Domaine des Tourelles Red ($20), its succulent black currant and mint notes wrapped up in fine-grained tannins, and then explore other names like Ixsir, Château Kefraya, Château Ksara, Château Marsyas, and of course the groundbreaking Chateau Musar.

The Rocks District, Oregon

If there&aposs an award for most appropriately named wine region, the Rocks District wins it. The surface of this subsection of the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley AVA is covered in fist-size stones. But give Syrah vines a chance to take root and you&aposll get magic in return— black-peppery, powerful, savory reds. Buty Winery blends that Syrah with Cabernet Sauvignon for its alluringly spicy 2016 Buty Rediviva of the Stones ($60).

Sta. Rita Hills, California

The first significant vineyard was planted here in 1971, but budding awareness of how great its Pinot Noirs could be hit in the early 2000s, and now its wines are cool-climate benchmarks. Try the 2016 Brewer-Clifton Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($40) to taste the brambly wild berries and faint salinity that characterize these wines.

Georgia

Archaeological findings near Georgia&aposs capital city of Tbilisi show wine being produced here nearly 8,000 years ago on the other hand, U.S. awareness of Georgian wines dates more to, say, 2010. Traditionally made in huge clay qvevri, these skin-contact whites (i.e., orange wines) and vivid reds thrilled sommeliers when they started to appear here. Track down the savory, amber-hued 2019 Orgo Dila-O Rkatsiteli-Mtsvane ($17) to see why.

Sierra De Gredos, Spain

Mountainous and austere, the Sierra de Gredos region west of Madrid started to gain acclaim 10 years or so ago as a source for gorgeous cool-climate Grenache, as young vintners took inspiration from France&aposs legendary Château Rayas to focus on the variety&aposs transparency and grace. The 2019 Comando G La Bruja de Rozas ($30) is characteristic, with its translucent ruby hue and herb-scented wild strawberry flavors.

Santa Cruz Mountains, California

The Santa Cruz Mountains have a storied winemaking history, but it seems only in recent years that wine lovers have realized how amazing the vineyards are. Whether the region does Pinot, Chardonnay, or Cabernet better is an open question, but there&aposs no doubt that the lemon blossom–scented 2017 Mount Eden Vineyards Estate Chardonnay ($60) is as ageworthy and complex as any great white Burgundy.

The Aubechampagne, France

For a long time, the Aube&aposs grapes were used as anonymous components in big-name brands. But recently, this region in Champagne&aposs far south has exploded into view. The Drappier family, which has been here since 1808, provides a great introduction to the Aube&aposs strengths with the Pinot Noir𠄽riven, nonvintage Champagne Drappier Carte d&aposOr ($49).

Swartland, South Africa

Lying along South Africa&aposs western coast, this region of rolling scrubland is also home to extraordinary old-vine Chenin Blancs, Syrahs, and field blends. The Swartland Revolution group of winemakers ignited awareness, pushing a more elegant style that thrilled wine lovers around the world. Founding members Andrea and Chris Mullineux&aposs 2017 Mullineux Syrah ($38), meaty and white peppery, speaks of the place brilliantly.

England

Fifty years ago, southern England was too cold to ripen Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the varieties used for great sparkling wine. Thirty years ago? Not true any- more. And about 15 years ago, English sparkling took off. The best have thrilling acidity and incredible focus, like the Nyetimber Classic Cuvພ Multi-Vintage ($55). It isn&apost inexpensive, but it rivals similarly priced wines from, you know, those French fellows across the Channel.

Once ignored, now powerhouses: these are today&aposs super-successes.

2001: Malbec

Argentina turned Malbec, once a forgotten variety, into one of the world&aposs most popular wines. The U.S. boom started around 2001. The peppery 2018 Catena Malbec ($24) makes it clear why.

2005: Prosecco

Champagne, elegant Prosecco, fun (and far less pricey). There&aposs the recipe for a jet-powered ascent in popularity. The citrusy NV Nino Franco Rustico ($21) is one of the best around.

2007: Grower Champagne

Grower Champagnes (single-estate, family- owned) hit wine lists in the mid-2000s and have never left. Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Rosé de Saignພ ($110) is a stellar example.

2008: Rosé

Imagine: Before the mid- 2000s, dry rosé wine was a thoroughly dead cat- egory. Whispering Angel Rosé ($25), its 2019 vintage juicy with wild strawberry notes, helped change that forever.

2014: Red Blends

Juicy, ripe, and often with a faint hint of sweetness, red blends stormed supermarket shelves in the 2010s. The Prisoner ($40) is the archetype— and far better than many of its imitators.

One major wine trend over recent years has been what could be called a love affair with the distant past. Sometimes that means rediscovering older winemaking approaches sometimes, vintners rescuing for- gotten grape varieties from near extinction. These four wines are star examples of cutting-edge wine-makers using the best of ancient techniques to make brilliant and boundary-pushing bottles.

Orange Wines

When white grapes ferment on their skins, you get the amber hue and tannic notes of orange wines. In the early 2000s, this ancient approach was picked up by vintners in Italy&aposs Friuli region—the savory 2016 Dario Princic Sivi Pinot ($57) is one stellar example.

Pét-Nats

Gently sparkling, often cloudy with yeast particles, and usually lightly sweet, these quaffable bubblies burst back into view in the 2010s, first from France (pét-nat&aposs homeland) and now from everywhere𠅎ven Texas, with the lively 2019 William Chris Pétillant Naturel ($25).

Forgotten Grapes

Greek Malagousia, Spanish Godello, Italy&aposs Nascetta: these nearly extinct grapes have all been rediscovery success sto- ries, thanks to enterprising wine growers. Try the stony, fragrant 2019 Elvio Cogno Anas-Cëtta ($39) to see what drives the desire to save these varieties.

Historic Vineyards

Morgan Twain-Peterson has been at the forefront of a move- ment to save California&aposs historic vineyards from being plowed under. Visit historicvineyard society.org for a list of these sites, maybe while sipping a glass of his luscious 2019 Bedrock Old Vine Zinfandel ($28).

In the realm of agricultural products, vintners throughout the world have been at the forefront of environmental awareness.

Biodynamics

This organic, quasi-spiritual farming approach, which also produces some very good wines, arrived in the wine world in the late 1960s. But it took the magnetic Loire vintner Nicolas Joly&aposs founding of the Return to Terroir group in 2001 to bring broad awareness to it. His gorgeous, minerally 2016 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulພ de Serrant ($122) is arguably still the defining biodynamic wine.

Natural Wine

Wine&aposs most controversial topic in the past decade, natural wine&aposs credo is best described as "nothing added, nothing removed," meaning as little human intervention as possible. It&aposs a walking-on-the- cliff&aposs-edge approach when things go wrong, weirdness results. But when things go right, as with the 2019 Arianna Occhipinti SP68 Rosso ($36), full of intense wild-berry energy, the results can be brilliant.

Green Wineries

In 2006, Oregon&aposs Stoller Winery earned the first LEED Gold certification in the world, a ground- breaking step in the movement toward sustainable, eco-friendly winery structures𠅊 direction soon followed by many others. Plus, the winery&aposs 2018 Stoller Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($35), with its lovely raspberry fruit and silky texture, shows that doing ecological good is no impediment to making excellent wine.

Grüner Veltliner

Austrian Grüner shot to visibility in the early 2000s but then took a back seat to other hot new varieties. In the 2010s, it rose again. The best Grüners are world-class, and even entry-level wines from top producers, like the flinty, spicy 2019 Alzinger Ried Mühlpoint Federspiel ($29), can be sublime.

Albariño

Minerally, even saline, with flavors that shift with the vintages between riper pineapple and sharper grapefruit, Albariño is one of the world&aposs greatest seafood wines and, at this point, Spain&aposs signature white grape. The 2019 Pazo Señorans ($24)— floral, citrusy, vivid—is a benchmark example.

Chenin Blanc

Never has a grape so con- signed to the realm of "eh, whatever" so completely about-faced into being obsessed over by sommeliers and wine lovers alike. To see why, check out the 2019 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups Remus ($31), with its stony green-apple fruit, from France&aposs Loire Valley.

Assyrtiko

A wave of ambitious wine-makers changed the face of Greek wine in the 1990s, but it took the U.S. until the late 2000s to catch on to exactly how good those wines have become. Try the 2019 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko ($42) the tart citrus flavors contain a hint of seaside salinity. You&aposll be a convert.

Dry Riesling

No, Riesling is not new. But U.S. awareness of the fact that it is not always sweet sure is, ditto that dry Riesling is one of the most versatile wines with food, ever. Head to Germany for affordable bottles from great produc- ers, like the taut, focused 2019 Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken ($28).

Raúl Pérez

No winemaker in Spain has drawn more acclaim in recent years than Raúl Pérez. From his home base in Bierzo, he makes wine throughout northwest Spain to Portugal and beyond, working winemaking magic with Spanish varieties such as Albariño, Godello, Menc໚, and more. His 2018 Raúl Pérez Ultreia Saint Jacques ($20), made from the Menc໚ grape, is one of the best values in wine, period.

Ntsiki Biyela

A college scholarship led Ntsiki Biyela, who grew up in the small village of KwaZulu-Natal, to study winemaking that led to a part-time job at a winery and a post at Stellekaya in Stellenbosch as the first Black woman winemaker in South Africa. There, her wines began to win awards, and today, she runs her own brand, Aslina seek out the cedary, cassis-rich 2019 Aslina Cabernet Sauvignon ($30).

Rolando Herrera

Rolando Herrera makes excellent wine, and he also embodies the American dream. After emigrating from Mexico as a teenager, he got a job as a vineyard worker at Stag&aposs Leap Wine Cellars soon, he was cellar master, and soon after that, he was a winemaker. Today, he owns his own winery, Mi Sueño to taste his work, seek out the lemon-creamy 2017 Mi Sueño Los Carneros Chardonnay ($42).

Sebastián Zuccardi

Think Argentine Malbec has to be big and heavy? Sebastián Zuccardi thinks otherwise. Zuccardi has pushed his family&aposs winery toward using high-altitude vineyards, giving a newfound freshness to their wines, and engaged in exhaustive vineyard studies to allow for distinctive single-vineyard reds. The 2019 Zuccardi Concreto Malbec ($40), floral and peppery, gives a sense of his vision.

Cristiana Tiberio

Abruzzo may be Italy&aposs least known but most exciting wine region one reason for that is Cristiana Tiberio. Her wines have become wine list must-haves in the past few years, particularly her long-aging, single-vineyard Fonte Canale Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo. That wine is pricey, but her basic, citrus-scented 2019 Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo ($20) is also superb and a steal.

Andréa and Robin Mcbride

Here&aposs a fairy-tale: Half sisters Andrບ and Robin McBride grew up separately in Marlborough, New Zealand, and Monterey, California when they met, they found a mutual interest in winemaking. What&aposs no fairy-tale is making it in a business dominated by white men as two Black women: That&aposs where talent, ambition, and incredible drive come in. Seek out their lively 2019 Black Girl Magic Rosé ($20).

Today in Champagne, there are more women chefs des caves and CEOs than ever before, and that&aposs partly thanks to groups such as La Transmission Femmes en Champagne. As Anne Malassagne of Champagne A.R. Lenoble, one of the group&aposs cofounders, says, "I took over our estate from my father in 1993, [and] I had to fight for many years to acquire legitimacy and to gain credibility. It seemed obvious to me that I had a responsibility to help other women in Champagne." She&aposs joined in La Transmission by Vitalie Taittinger, co-owner of Champagne Taittinger Maggie Henriquez, CEO of Champagne Krug and many others. Check out their organization at la-transmission-champagne.com, possibly while sipping a glass of the minerally NV Champagne A.R. Lenoble Rosé Terroirs Chouilly-Bisseuil ($63)—an inspiring wine, for sure.

If there&aposs one stylistic trend that has marked the past seven or eight years, it&aposs a turn away from high-alcohol, super-ripe wines—red or white—toward lighter, more savory styles. Cooler-climate regions earlier harvesting renewed attention paid to wines like򠯪ujolais, once out of fashion for its lightness, and classic Napa Valley producers known more for balance than massiveness. well. Elegance is in, as these four paradigm-shifting categories amply demonstrate. Read More.


The 2021 Wine Lover&rsquos Guide

The past two decades have seen vast changes in the world of wine. Before 2000, the classics were clear: classified Bordeaux, grand cru Burgundy, top Champagnes, Napa Valley Cabernet, a few others. Now, overlooked grapes like Chenin Blanc are standards, volcanic terroirs are hot spots (literally, for Mount Etna), natural wine provokes passionate debate, and many winemakers well below legal age in 2000 have become top talents in the field. So while the old benchmarks are still vital𠅍on&apost turn down Pétrus if someone hands you a glass—here are the regions, grapes, and trends helping to define the new wine world. Seek them out: They&aposll tell you about what wine is today and where it&aposs headed𠅊nd they also happen to be delicious. —Ray Isle

Mount Etna, Sicily

Make wine on an active volcano? Great idea, if you&aposre after the particular character that volcanic soils give to wine (up until the thing erupts, of course). Etna is one of Italian wine&aposs recent success stories, producing aromatic, detailed reds and stony whites unlike anything else from Sicily—or from Italy at all for that matter. Passopisciaro, an early star, remains so on the strength of wines like its ruby-hued, red currant–rich 2018 Passopisciaro Passorosso ($39).

Bekaa Valley, Lebanon

Lebanon&aposs wine culture is ancient, but American awareness of it has only just started to rise. About time: the Bekaa Valley is an ideal place to grow grapes, with warm days, cool nights, and rocky limestone soils. Start with the 2017 Domaine des Tourelles Red ($20), its succulent black currant and mint notes wrapped up in fine-grained tannins, and then explore other names like Ixsir, Château Kefraya, Château Ksara, Château Marsyas, and of course the groundbreaking Chateau Musar.

The Rocks District, Oregon

If there&aposs an award for most appropriately named wine region, the Rocks District wins it. The surface of this subsection of the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley AVA is covered in fist-size stones. But give Syrah vines a chance to take root and you&aposll get magic in return— black-peppery, powerful, savory reds. Buty Winery blends that Syrah with Cabernet Sauvignon for its alluringly spicy 2016 Buty Rediviva of the Stones ($60).

Sta. Rita Hills, California

The first significant vineyard was planted here in 1971, but budding awareness of how great its Pinot Noirs could be hit in the early 2000s, and now its wines are cool-climate benchmarks. Try the 2016 Brewer-Clifton Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($40) to taste the brambly wild berries and faint salinity that characterize these wines.

Georgia

Archaeological findings near Georgia&aposs capital city of Tbilisi show wine being produced here nearly 8,000 years ago on the other hand, U.S. awareness of Georgian wines dates more to, say, 2010. Traditionally made in huge clay qvevri, these skin-contact whites (i.e., orange wines) and vivid reds thrilled sommeliers when they started to appear here. Track down the savory, amber-hued 2019 Orgo Dila-O Rkatsiteli-Mtsvane ($17) to see why.

Sierra De Gredos, Spain

Mountainous and austere, the Sierra de Gredos region west of Madrid started to gain acclaim 10 years or so ago as a source for gorgeous cool-climate Grenache, as young vintners took inspiration from France&aposs legendary Château Rayas to focus on the variety&aposs transparency and grace. The 2019 Comando G La Bruja de Rozas ($30) is characteristic, with its translucent ruby hue and herb-scented wild strawberry flavors.

Santa Cruz Mountains, California

The Santa Cruz Mountains have a storied winemaking history, but it seems only in recent years that wine lovers have realized how amazing the vineyards are. Whether the region does Pinot, Chardonnay, or Cabernet better is an open question, but there&aposs no doubt that the lemon blossom–scented 2017 Mount Eden Vineyards Estate Chardonnay ($60) is as ageworthy and complex as any great white Burgundy.

The Aubechampagne, France

For a long time, the Aube&aposs grapes were used as anonymous components in big-name brands. But recently, this region in Champagne&aposs far south has exploded into view. The Drappier family, which has been here since 1808, provides a great introduction to the Aube&aposs strengths with the Pinot Noir𠄽riven, nonvintage Champagne Drappier Carte d&aposOr ($49).

Swartland, South Africa

Lying along South Africa&aposs western coast, this region of rolling scrubland is also home to extraordinary old-vine Chenin Blancs, Syrahs, and field blends. The Swartland Revolution group of winemakers ignited awareness, pushing a more elegant style that thrilled wine lovers around the world. Founding members Andrea and Chris Mullineux&aposs 2017 Mullineux Syrah ($38), meaty and white peppery, speaks of the place brilliantly.

England

Fifty years ago, southern England was too cold to ripen Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the varieties used for great sparkling wine. Thirty years ago? Not true any- more. And about 15 years ago, English sparkling took off. The best have thrilling acidity and incredible focus, like the Nyetimber Classic Cuvພ Multi-Vintage ($55). It isn&apost inexpensive, but it rivals similarly priced wines from, you know, those French fellows across the Channel.

Once ignored, now powerhouses: these are today&aposs super-successes.

2001: Malbec

Argentina turned Malbec, once a forgotten variety, into one of the world&aposs most popular wines. The U.S. boom started around 2001. The peppery 2018 Catena Malbec ($24) makes it clear why.

2005: Prosecco

Champagne, elegant Prosecco, fun (and far less pricey). There&aposs the recipe for a jet-powered ascent in popularity. The citrusy NV Nino Franco Rustico ($21) is one of the best around.

2007: Grower Champagne

Grower Champagnes (single-estate, family- owned) hit wine lists in the mid-2000s and have never left. Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Rosé de Saignພ ($110) is a stellar example.

2008: Rosé

Imagine: Before the mid- 2000s, dry rosé wine was a thoroughly dead cat- egory. Whispering Angel Rosé ($25), its 2019 vintage juicy with wild strawberry notes, helped change that forever.

2014: Red Blends

Juicy, ripe, and often with a faint hint of sweetness, red blends stormed supermarket shelves in the 2010s. The Prisoner ($40) is the archetype— and far better than many of its imitators.

One major wine trend over recent years has been what could be called a love affair with the distant past. Sometimes that means rediscovering older winemaking approaches sometimes, vintners rescuing for- gotten grape varieties from near extinction. These four wines are star examples of cutting-edge wine-makers using the best of ancient techniques to make brilliant and boundary-pushing bottles.

Orange Wines

When white grapes ferment on their skins, you get the amber hue and tannic notes of orange wines. In the early 2000s, this ancient approach was picked up by vintners in Italy&aposs Friuli region—the savory 2016 Dario Princic Sivi Pinot ($57) is one stellar example.

Pét-Nats

Gently sparkling, often cloudy with yeast particles, and usually lightly sweet, these quaffable bubblies burst back into view in the 2010s, first from France (pét-nat&aposs homeland) and now from everywhere𠅎ven Texas, with the lively 2019 William Chris Pétillant Naturel ($25).

Forgotten Grapes

Greek Malagousia, Spanish Godello, Italy&aposs Nascetta: these nearly extinct grapes have all been rediscovery success sto- ries, thanks to enterprising wine growers. Try the stony, fragrant 2019 Elvio Cogno Anas-Cëtta ($39) to see what drives the desire to save these varieties.

Historic Vineyards

Morgan Twain-Peterson has been at the forefront of a move- ment to save California&aposs historic vineyards from being plowed under. Visit historicvineyard society.org for a list of these sites, maybe while sipping a glass of his luscious 2019 Bedrock Old Vine Zinfandel ($28).

In the realm of agricultural products, vintners throughout the world have been at the forefront of environmental awareness.

Biodynamics

This organic, quasi-spiritual farming approach, which also produces some very good wines, arrived in the wine world in the late 1960s. But it took the magnetic Loire vintner Nicolas Joly&aposs founding of the Return to Terroir group in 2001 to bring broad awareness to it. His gorgeous, minerally 2016 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulພ de Serrant ($122) is arguably still the defining biodynamic wine.

Natural Wine

Wine&aposs most controversial topic in the past decade, natural wine&aposs credo is best described as "nothing added, nothing removed," meaning as little human intervention as possible. It&aposs a walking-on-the- cliff&aposs-edge approach when things go wrong, weirdness results. But when things go right, as with the 2019 Arianna Occhipinti SP68 Rosso ($36), full of intense wild-berry energy, the results can be brilliant.

Green Wineries

In 2006, Oregon&aposs Stoller Winery earned the first LEED Gold certification in the world, a ground- breaking step in the movement toward sustainable, eco-friendly winery structures𠅊 direction soon followed by many others. Plus, the winery&aposs 2018 Stoller Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($35), with its lovely raspberry fruit and silky texture, shows that doing ecological good is no impediment to making excellent wine.

Grüner Veltliner

Austrian Grüner shot to visibility in the early 2000s but then took a back seat to other hot new varieties. In the 2010s, it rose again. The best Grüners are world-class, and even entry-level wines from top producers, like the flinty, spicy 2019 Alzinger Ried Mühlpoint Federspiel ($29), can be sublime.

Albariño

Minerally, even saline, with flavors that shift with the vintages between riper pineapple and sharper grapefruit, Albariño is one of the world&aposs greatest seafood wines and, at this point, Spain&aposs signature white grape. The 2019 Pazo Señorans ($24)— floral, citrusy, vivid—is a benchmark example.

Chenin Blanc

Never has a grape so con- signed to the realm of "eh, whatever" so completely about-faced into being obsessed over by sommeliers and wine lovers alike. To see why, check out the 2019 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups Remus ($31), with its stony green-apple fruit, from France&aposs Loire Valley.

Assyrtiko

A wave of ambitious wine-makers changed the face of Greek wine in the 1990s, but it took the U.S. until the late 2000s to catch on to exactly how good those wines have become. Try the 2019 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko ($42) the tart citrus flavors contain a hint of seaside salinity. You&aposll be a convert.

Dry Riesling

No, Riesling is not new. But U.S. awareness of the fact that it is not always sweet sure is, ditto that dry Riesling is one of the most versatile wines with food, ever. Head to Germany for affordable bottles from great produc- ers, like the taut, focused 2019 Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken ($28).

Raúl Pérez

No winemaker in Spain has drawn more acclaim in recent years than Raúl Pérez. From his home base in Bierzo, he makes wine throughout northwest Spain to Portugal and beyond, working winemaking magic with Spanish varieties such as Albariño, Godello, Menc໚, and more. His 2018 Raúl Pérez Ultreia Saint Jacques ($20), made from the Menc໚ grape, is one of the best values in wine, period.

Ntsiki Biyela

A college scholarship led Ntsiki Biyela, who grew up in the small village of KwaZulu-Natal, to study winemaking that led to a part-time job at a winery and a post at Stellekaya in Stellenbosch as the first Black woman winemaker in South Africa. There, her wines began to win awards, and today, she runs her own brand, Aslina seek out the cedary, cassis-rich 2019 Aslina Cabernet Sauvignon ($30).

Rolando Herrera

Rolando Herrera makes excellent wine, and he also embodies the American dream. After emigrating from Mexico as a teenager, he got a job as a vineyard worker at Stag&aposs Leap Wine Cellars soon, he was cellar master, and soon after that, he was a winemaker. Today, he owns his own winery, Mi Sueño to taste his work, seek out the lemon-creamy 2017 Mi Sueño Los Carneros Chardonnay ($42).

Sebastián Zuccardi

Think Argentine Malbec has to be big and heavy? Sebastián Zuccardi thinks otherwise. Zuccardi has pushed his family&aposs winery toward using high-altitude vineyards, giving a newfound freshness to their wines, and engaged in exhaustive vineyard studies to allow for distinctive single-vineyard reds. The 2019 Zuccardi Concreto Malbec ($40), floral and peppery, gives a sense of his vision.

Cristiana Tiberio

Abruzzo may be Italy&aposs least known but most exciting wine region one reason for that is Cristiana Tiberio. Her wines have become wine list must-haves in the past few years, particularly her long-aging, single-vineyard Fonte Canale Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo. That wine is pricey, but her basic, citrus-scented 2019 Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo ($20) is also superb and a steal.

Andréa and Robin Mcbride

Here&aposs a fairy-tale: Half sisters Andrບ and Robin McBride grew up separately in Marlborough, New Zealand, and Monterey, California when they met, they found a mutual interest in winemaking. What&aposs no fairy-tale is making it in a business dominated by white men as two Black women: That&aposs where talent, ambition, and incredible drive come in. Seek out their lively 2019 Black Girl Magic Rosé ($20).

Today in Champagne, there are more women chefs des caves and CEOs than ever before, and that&aposs partly thanks to groups such as La Transmission Femmes en Champagne. As Anne Malassagne of Champagne A.R. Lenoble, one of the group&aposs cofounders, says, "I took over our estate from my father in 1993, [and] I had to fight for many years to acquire legitimacy and to gain credibility. It seemed obvious to me that I had a responsibility to help other women in Champagne." She&aposs joined in La Transmission by Vitalie Taittinger, co-owner of Champagne Taittinger Maggie Henriquez, CEO of Champagne Krug and many others. Check out their organization at la-transmission-champagne.com, possibly while sipping a glass of the minerally NV Champagne A.R. Lenoble Rosé Terroirs Chouilly-Bisseuil ($63)—an inspiring wine, for sure.

If there&aposs one stylistic trend that has marked the past seven or eight years, it&aposs a turn away from high-alcohol, super-ripe wines—red or white—toward lighter, more savory styles. Cooler-climate regions earlier harvesting renewed attention paid to wines like򠯪ujolais, once out of fashion for its lightness, and classic Napa Valley producers known more for balance than massiveness. well. Elegance is in, as these four paradigm-shifting categories amply demonstrate. Read More.


The 2021 Wine Lover&rsquos Guide

The past two decades have seen vast changes in the world of wine. Before 2000, the classics were clear: classified Bordeaux, grand cru Burgundy, top Champagnes, Napa Valley Cabernet, a few others. Now, overlooked grapes like Chenin Blanc are standards, volcanic terroirs are hot spots (literally, for Mount Etna), natural wine provokes passionate debate, and many winemakers well below legal age in 2000 have become top talents in the field. So while the old benchmarks are still vital𠅍on&apost turn down Pétrus if someone hands you a glass—here are the regions, grapes, and trends helping to define the new wine world. Seek them out: They&aposll tell you about what wine is today and where it&aposs headed𠅊nd they also happen to be delicious. —Ray Isle

Mount Etna, Sicily

Make wine on an active volcano? Great idea, if you&aposre after the particular character that volcanic soils give to wine (up until the thing erupts, of course). Etna is one of Italian wine&aposs recent success stories, producing aromatic, detailed reds and stony whites unlike anything else from Sicily—or from Italy at all for that matter. Passopisciaro, an early star, remains so on the strength of wines like its ruby-hued, red currant–rich 2018 Passopisciaro Passorosso ($39).

Bekaa Valley, Lebanon

Lebanon&aposs wine culture is ancient, but American awareness of it has only just started to rise. About time: the Bekaa Valley is an ideal place to grow grapes, with warm days, cool nights, and rocky limestone soils. Start with the 2017 Domaine des Tourelles Red ($20), its succulent black currant and mint notes wrapped up in fine-grained tannins, and then explore other names like Ixsir, Château Kefraya, Château Ksara, Château Marsyas, and of course the groundbreaking Chateau Musar.

The Rocks District, Oregon

If there&aposs an award for most appropriately named wine region, the Rocks District wins it. The surface of this subsection of the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley AVA is covered in fist-size stones. But give Syrah vines a chance to take root and you&aposll get magic in return— black-peppery, powerful, savory reds. Buty Winery blends that Syrah with Cabernet Sauvignon for its alluringly spicy 2016 Buty Rediviva of the Stones ($60).

Sta. Rita Hills, California

The first significant vineyard was planted here in 1971, but budding awareness of how great its Pinot Noirs could be hit in the early 2000s, and now its wines are cool-climate benchmarks. Try the 2016 Brewer-Clifton Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($40) to taste the brambly wild berries and faint salinity that characterize these wines.

Georgia

Archaeological findings near Georgia&aposs capital city of Tbilisi show wine being produced here nearly 8,000 years ago on the other hand, U.S. awareness of Georgian wines dates more to, say, 2010. Traditionally made in huge clay qvevri, these skin-contact whites (i.e., orange wines) and vivid reds thrilled sommeliers when they started to appear here. Track down the savory, amber-hued 2019 Orgo Dila-O Rkatsiteli-Mtsvane ($17) to see why.

Sierra De Gredos, Spain

Mountainous and austere, the Sierra de Gredos region west of Madrid started to gain acclaim 10 years or so ago as a source for gorgeous cool-climate Grenache, as young vintners took inspiration from France&aposs legendary Château Rayas to focus on the variety&aposs transparency and grace. The 2019 Comando G La Bruja de Rozas ($30) is characteristic, with its translucent ruby hue and herb-scented wild strawberry flavors.

Santa Cruz Mountains, California

The Santa Cruz Mountains have a storied winemaking history, but it seems only in recent years that wine lovers have realized how amazing the vineyards are. Whether the region does Pinot, Chardonnay, or Cabernet better is an open question, but there&aposs no doubt that the lemon blossom–scented 2017 Mount Eden Vineyards Estate Chardonnay ($60) is as ageworthy and complex as any great white Burgundy.

The Aubechampagne, France

For a long time, the Aube&aposs grapes were used as anonymous components in big-name brands. But recently, this region in Champagne&aposs far south has exploded into view. The Drappier family, which has been here since 1808, provides a great introduction to the Aube&aposs strengths with the Pinot Noir𠄽riven, nonvintage Champagne Drappier Carte d&aposOr ($49).

Swartland, South Africa

Lying along South Africa&aposs western coast, this region of rolling scrubland is also home to extraordinary old-vine Chenin Blancs, Syrahs, and field blends. The Swartland Revolution group of winemakers ignited awareness, pushing a more elegant style that thrilled wine lovers around the world. Founding members Andrea and Chris Mullineux&aposs 2017 Mullineux Syrah ($38), meaty and white peppery, speaks of the place brilliantly.

England

Fifty years ago, southern England was too cold to ripen Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the varieties used for great sparkling wine. Thirty years ago? Not true any- more. And about 15 years ago, English sparkling took off. The best have thrilling acidity and incredible focus, like the Nyetimber Classic Cuvພ Multi-Vintage ($55). It isn&apost inexpensive, but it rivals similarly priced wines from, you know, those French fellows across the Channel.

Once ignored, now powerhouses: these are today&aposs super-successes.

2001: Malbec

Argentina turned Malbec, once a forgotten variety, into one of the world&aposs most popular wines. The U.S. boom started around 2001. The peppery 2018 Catena Malbec ($24) makes it clear why.

2005: Prosecco

Champagne, elegant Prosecco, fun (and far less pricey). There&aposs the recipe for a jet-powered ascent in popularity. The citrusy NV Nino Franco Rustico ($21) is one of the best around.

2007: Grower Champagne

Grower Champagnes (single-estate, family- owned) hit wine lists in the mid-2000s and have never left. Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Rosé de Saignພ ($110) is a stellar example.

2008: Rosé

Imagine: Before the mid- 2000s, dry rosé wine was a thoroughly dead cat- egory. Whispering Angel Rosé ($25), its 2019 vintage juicy with wild strawberry notes, helped change that forever.

2014: Red Blends

Juicy, ripe, and often with a faint hint of sweetness, red blends stormed supermarket shelves in the 2010s. The Prisoner ($40) is the archetype— and far better than many of its imitators.

One major wine trend over recent years has been what could be called a love affair with the distant past. Sometimes that means rediscovering older winemaking approaches sometimes, vintners rescuing for- gotten grape varieties from near extinction. These four wines are star examples of cutting-edge wine-makers using the best of ancient techniques to make brilliant and boundary-pushing bottles.

Orange Wines

When white grapes ferment on their skins, you get the amber hue and tannic notes of orange wines. In the early 2000s, this ancient approach was picked up by vintners in Italy&aposs Friuli region—the savory 2016 Dario Princic Sivi Pinot ($57) is one stellar example.

Pét-Nats

Gently sparkling, often cloudy with yeast particles, and usually lightly sweet, these quaffable bubblies burst back into view in the 2010s, first from France (pét-nat&aposs homeland) and now from everywhere𠅎ven Texas, with the lively 2019 William Chris Pétillant Naturel ($25).

Forgotten Grapes

Greek Malagousia, Spanish Godello, Italy&aposs Nascetta: these nearly extinct grapes have all been rediscovery success sto- ries, thanks to enterprising wine growers. Try the stony, fragrant 2019 Elvio Cogno Anas-Cëtta ($39) to see what drives the desire to save these varieties.

Historic Vineyards

Morgan Twain-Peterson has been at the forefront of a move- ment to save California&aposs historic vineyards from being plowed under. Visit historicvineyard society.org for a list of these sites, maybe while sipping a glass of his luscious 2019 Bedrock Old Vine Zinfandel ($28).

In the realm of agricultural products, vintners throughout the world have been at the forefront of environmental awareness.

Biodynamics

This organic, quasi-spiritual farming approach, which also produces some very good wines, arrived in the wine world in the late 1960s. But it took the magnetic Loire vintner Nicolas Joly&aposs founding of the Return to Terroir group in 2001 to bring broad awareness to it. His gorgeous, minerally 2016 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulພ de Serrant ($122) is arguably still the defining biodynamic wine.

Natural Wine

Wine&aposs most controversial topic in the past decade, natural wine&aposs credo is best described as "nothing added, nothing removed," meaning as little human intervention as possible. It&aposs a walking-on-the- cliff&aposs-edge approach when things go wrong, weirdness results. But when things go right, as with the 2019 Arianna Occhipinti SP68 Rosso ($36), full of intense wild-berry energy, the results can be brilliant.

Green Wineries

In 2006, Oregon&aposs Stoller Winery earned the first LEED Gold certification in the world, a ground- breaking step in the movement toward sustainable, eco-friendly winery structures𠅊 direction soon followed by many others. Plus, the winery&aposs 2018 Stoller Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($35), with its lovely raspberry fruit and silky texture, shows that doing ecological good is no impediment to making excellent wine.

Grüner Veltliner

Austrian Grüner shot to visibility in the early 2000s but then took a back seat to other hot new varieties. In the 2010s, it rose again. The best Grüners are world-class, and even entry-level wines from top producers, like the flinty, spicy 2019 Alzinger Ried Mühlpoint Federspiel ($29), can be sublime.

Albariño

Minerally, even saline, with flavors that shift with the vintages between riper pineapple and sharper grapefruit, Albariño is one of the world&aposs greatest seafood wines and, at this point, Spain&aposs signature white grape. The 2019 Pazo Señorans ($24)— floral, citrusy, vivid—is a benchmark example.

Chenin Blanc

Never has a grape so con- signed to the realm of "eh, whatever" so completely about-faced into being obsessed over by sommeliers and wine lovers alike. To see why, check out the 2019 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups Remus ($31), with its stony green-apple fruit, from France&aposs Loire Valley.

Assyrtiko

A wave of ambitious wine-makers changed the face of Greek wine in the 1990s, but it took the U.S. until the late 2000s to catch on to exactly how good those wines have become. Try the 2019 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko ($42) the tart citrus flavors contain a hint of seaside salinity. You&aposll be a convert.

Dry Riesling

No, Riesling is not new. But U.S. awareness of the fact that it is not always sweet sure is, ditto that dry Riesling is one of the most versatile wines with food, ever. Head to Germany for affordable bottles from great produc- ers, like the taut, focused 2019 Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken ($28).

Raúl Pérez

No winemaker in Spain has drawn more acclaim in recent years than Raúl Pérez. From his home base in Bierzo, he makes wine throughout northwest Spain to Portugal and beyond, working winemaking magic with Spanish varieties such as Albariño, Godello, Menc໚, and more. His 2018 Raúl Pérez Ultreia Saint Jacques ($20), made from the Menc໚ grape, is one of the best values in wine, period.

Ntsiki Biyela

A college scholarship led Ntsiki Biyela, who grew up in the small village of KwaZulu-Natal, to study winemaking that led to a part-time job at a winery and a post at Stellekaya in Stellenbosch as the first Black woman winemaker in South Africa. There, her wines began to win awards, and today, she runs her own brand, Aslina seek out the cedary, cassis-rich 2019 Aslina Cabernet Sauvignon ($30).

Rolando Herrera

Rolando Herrera makes excellent wine, and he also embodies the American dream. After emigrating from Mexico as a teenager, he got a job as a vineyard worker at Stag&aposs Leap Wine Cellars soon, he was cellar master, and soon after that, he was a winemaker. Today, he owns his own winery, Mi Sueño to taste his work, seek out the lemon-creamy 2017 Mi Sueño Los Carneros Chardonnay ($42).

Sebastián Zuccardi

Think Argentine Malbec has to be big and heavy? Sebastián Zuccardi thinks otherwise. Zuccardi has pushed his family&aposs winery toward using high-altitude vineyards, giving a newfound freshness to their wines, and engaged in exhaustive vineyard studies to allow for distinctive single-vineyard reds. The 2019 Zuccardi Concreto Malbec ($40), floral and peppery, gives a sense of his vision.

Cristiana Tiberio

Abruzzo may be Italy&aposs least known but most exciting wine region one reason for that is Cristiana Tiberio. Her wines have become wine list must-haves in the past few years, particularly her long-aging, single-vineyard Fonte Canale Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo. That wine is pricey, but her basic, citrus-scented 2019 Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo ($20) is also superb and a steal.

Andréa and Robin Mcbride

Here&aposs a fairy-tale: Half sisters Andrບ and Robin McBride grew up separately in Marlborough, New Zealand, and Monterey, California when they met, they found a mutual interest in winemaking. What&aposs no fairy-tale is making it in a business dominated by white men as two Black women: That&aposs where talent, ambition, and incredible drive come in. Seek out their lively 2019 Black Girl Magic Rosé ($20).

Today in Champagne, there are more women chefs des caves and CEOs than ever before, and that&aposs partly thanks to groups such as La Transmission Femmes en Champagne. As Anne Malassagne of Champagne A.R. Lenoble, one of the group&aposs cofounders, says, "I took over our estate from my father in 1993, [and] I had to fight for many years to acquire legitimacy and to gain credibility. It seemed obvious to me that I had a responsibility to help other women in Champagne." She&aposs joined in La Transmission by Vitalie Taittinger, co-owner of Champagne Taittinger Maggie Henriquez, CEO of Champagne Krug and many others. Check out their organization at la-transmission-champagne.com, possibly while sipping a glass of the minerally NV Champagne A.R. Lenoble Rosé Terroirs Chouilly-Bisseuil ($63)—an inspiring wine, for sure.

If there&aposs one stylistic trend that has marked the past seven or eight years, it&aposs a turn away from high-alcohol, super-ripe wines—red or white—toward lighter, more savory styles. Cooler-climate regions earlier harvesting renewed attention paid to wines like򠯪ujolais, once out of fashion for its lightness, and classic Napa Valley producers known more for balance than massiveness. well. Elegance is in, as these four paradigm-shifting categories amply demonstrate. Read More.


The 2021 Wine Lover&rsquos Guide

The past two decades have seen vast changes in the world of wine. Before 2000, the classics were clear: classified Bordeaux, grand cru Burgundy, top Champagnes, Napa Valley Cabernet, a few others. Now, overlooked grapes like Chenin Blanc are standards, volcanic terroirs are hot spots (literally, for Mount Etna), natural wine provokes passionate debate, and many winemakers well below legal age in 2000 have become top talents in the field. So while the old benchmarks are still vital𠅍on&apost turn down Pétrus if someone hands you a glass—here are the regions, grapes, and trends helping to define the new wine world. Seek them out: They&aposll tell you about what wine is today and where it&aposs headed𠅊nd they also happen to be delicious. —Ray Isle

Mount Etna, Sicily

Make wine on an active volcano? Great idea, if you&aposre after the particular character that volcanic soils give to wine (up until the thing erupts, of course). Etna is one of Italian wine&aposs recent success stories, producing aromatic, detailed reds and stony whites unlike anything else from Sicily—or from Italy at all for that matter. Passopisciaro, an early star, remains so on the strength of wines like its ruby-hued, red currant–rich 2018 Passopisciaro Passorosso ($39).

Bekaa Valley, Lebanon

Lebanon&aposs wine culture is ancient, but American awareness of it has only just started to rise. About time: the Bekaa Valley is an ideal place to grow grapes, with warm days, cool nights, and rocky limestone soils. Start with the 2017 Domaine des Tourelles Red ($20), its succulent black currant and mint notes wrapped up in fine-grained tannins, and then explore other names like Ixsir, Château Kefraya, Château Ksara, Château Marsyas, and of course the groundbreaking Chateau Musar.

The Rocks District, Oregon

If there&aposs an award for most appropriately named wine region, the Rocks District wins it. The surface of this subsection of the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley AVA is covered in fist-size stones. But give Syrah vines a chance to take root and you&aposll get magic in return— black-peppery, powerful, savory reds. Buty Winery blends that Syrah with Cabernet Sauvignon for its alluringly spicy 2016 Buty Rediviva of the Stones ($60).

Sta. Rita Hills, California

The first significant vineyard was planted here in 1971, but budding awareness of how great its Pinot Noirs could be hit in the early 2000s, and now its wines are cool-climate benchmarks. Try the 2016 Brewer-Clifton Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($40) to taste the brambly wild berries and faint salinity that characterize these wines.

Georgia

Archaeological findings near Georgia&aposs capital city of Tbilisi show wine being produced here nearly 8,000 years ago on the other hand, U.S. awareness of Georgian wines dates more to, say, 2010. Traditionally made in huge clay qvevri, these skin-contact whites (i.e., orange wines) and vivid reds thrilled sommeliers when they started to appear here. Track down the savory, amber-hued 2019 Orgo Dila-O Rkatsiteli-Mtsvane ($17) to see why.

Sierra De Gredos, Spain

Mountainous and austere, the Sierra de Gredos region west of Madrid started to gain acclaim 10 years or so ago as a source for gorgeous cool-climate Grenache, as young vintners took inspiration from France&aposs legendary Château Rayas to focus on the variety&aposs transparency and grace. The 2019 Comando G La Bruja de Rozas ($30) is characteristic, with its translucent ruby hue and herb-scented wild strawberry flavors.

Santa Cruz Mountains, California

The Santa Cruz Mountains have a storied winemaking history, but it seems only in recent years that wine lovers have realized how amazing the vineyards are. Whether the region does Pinot, Chardonnay, or Cabernet better is an open question, but there&aposs no doubt that the lemon blossom–scented 2017 Mount Eden Vineyards Estate Chardonnay ($60) is as ageworthy and complex as any great white Burgundy.

The Aubechampagne, France

For a long time, the Aube&aposs grapes were used as anonymous components in big-name brands. But recently, this region in Champagne&aposs far south has exploded into view. The Drappier family, which has been here since 1808, provides a great introduction to the Aube&aposs strengths with the Pinot Noir𠄽riven, nonvintage Champagne Drappier Carte d&aposOr ($49).

Swartland, South Africa

Lying along South Africa&aposs western coast, this region of rolling scrubland is also home to extraordinary old-vine Chenin Blancs, Syrahs, and field blends. The Swartland Revolution group of winemakers ignited awareness, pushing a more elegant style that thrilled wine lovers around the world. Founding members Andrea and Chris Mullineux&aposs 2017 Mullineux Syrah ($38), meaty and white peppery, speaks of the place brilliantly.

England

Fifty years ago, southern England was too cold to ripen Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the varieties used for great sparkling wine. Thirty years ago? Not true any- more. And about 15 years ago, English sparkling took off. The best have thrilling acidity and incredible focus, like the Nyetimber Classic Cuvພ Multi-Vintage ($55). It isn&apost inexpensive, but it rivals similarly priced wines from, you know, those French fellows across the Channel.

Once ignored, now powerhouses: these are today&aposs super-successes.

2001: Malbec

Argentina turned Malbec, once a forgotten variety, into one of the world&aposs most popular wines. The U.S. boom started around 2001. The peppery 2018 Catena Malbec ($24) makes it clear why.

2005: Prosecco

Champagne, elegant Prosecco, fun (and far less pricey). There&aposs the recipe for a jet-powered ascent in popularity. The citrusy NV Nino Franco Rustico ($21) is one of the best around.

2007: Grower Champagne

Grower Champagnes (single-estate, family- owned) hit wine lists in the mid-2000s and have never left. Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Rosé de Saignພ ($110) is a stellar example.

2008: Rosé

Imagine: Before the mid- 2000s, dry rosé wine was a thoroughly dead cat- egory. Whispering Angel Rosé ($25), its 2019 vintage juicy with wild strawberry notes, helped change that forever.

2014: Red Blends

Juicy, ripe, and often with a faint hint of sweetness, red blends stormed supermarket shelves in the 2010s. The Prisoner ($40) is the archetype— and far better than many of its imitators.

One major wine trend over recent years has been what could be called a love affair with the distant past. Sometimes that means rediscovering older winemaking approaches sometimes, vintners rescuing for- gotten grape varieties from near extinction. These four wines are star examples of cutting-edge wine-makers using the best of ancient techniques to make brilliant and boundary-pushing bottles.

Orange Wines

When white grapes ferment on their skins, you get the amber hue and tannic notes of orange wines. In the early 2000s, this ancient approach was picked up by vintners in Italy&aposs Friuli region—the savory 2016 Dario Princic Sivi Pinot ($57) is one stellar example.

Pét-Nats

Gently sparkling, often cloudy with yeast particles, and usually lightly sweet, these quaffable bubblies burst back into view in the 2010s, first from France (pét-nat&aposs homeland) and now from everywhere𠅎ven Texas, with the lively 2019 William Chris Pétillant Naturel ($25).

Forgotten Grapes

Greek Malagousia, Spanish Godello, Italy&aposs Nascetta: these nearly extinct grapes have all been rediscovery success sto- ries, thanks to enterprising wine growers. Try the stony, fragrant 2019 Elvio Cogno Anas-Cëtta ($39) to see what drives the desire to save these varieties.

Historic Vineyards

Morgan Twain-Peterson has been at the forefront of a move- ment to save California&aposs historic vineyards from being plowed under. Visit historicvineyard society.org for a list of these sites, maybe while sipping a glass of his luscious 2019 Bedrock Old Vine Zinfandel ($28).

In the realm of agricultural products, vintners throughout the world have been at the forefront of environmental awareness.

Biodynamics

This organic, quasi-spiritual farming approach, which also produces some very good wines, arrived in the wine world in the late 1960s. But it took the magnetic Loire vintner Nicolas Joly&aposs founding of the Return to Terroir group in 2001 to bring broad awareness to it. His gorgeous, minerally 2016 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulພ de Serrant ($122) is arguably still the defining biodynamic wine.

Natural Wine

Wine&aposs most controversial topic in the past decade, natural wine&aposs credo is best described as "nothing added, nothing removed," meaning as little human intervention as possible. It&aposs a walking-on-the- cliff&aposs-edge approach when things go wrong, weirdness results. But when things go right, as with the 2019 Arianna Occhipinti SP68 Rosso ($36), full of intense wild-berry energy, the results can be brilliant.

Green Wineries

In 2006, Oregon&aposs Stoller Winery earned the first LEED Gold certification in the world, a ground- breaking step in the movement toward sustainable, eco-friendly winery structures𠅊 direction soon followed by many others. Plus, the winery&aposs 2018 Stoller Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($35), with its lovely raspberry fruit and silky texture, shows that doing ecological good is no impediment to making excellent wine.

Grüner Veltliner

Austrian Grüner shot to visibility in the early 2000s but then took a back seat to other hot new varieties. In the 2010s, it rose again. The best Grüners are world-class, and even entry-level wines from top producers, like the flinty, spicy 2019 Alzinger Ried Mühlpoint Federspiel ($29), can be sublime.

Albariño

Minerally, even saline, with flavors that shift with the vintages between riper pineapple and sharper grapefruit, Albariño is one of the world&aposs greatest seafood wines and, at this point, Spain&aposs signature white grape. The 2019 Pazo Señorans ($24)— floral, citrusy, vivid—is a benchmark example.

Chenin Blanc

Never has a grape so con- signed to the realm of "eh, whatever" so completely about-faced into being obsessed over by sommeliers and wine lovers alike. To see why, check out the 2019 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups Remus ($31), with its stony green-apple fruit, from France&aposs Loire Valley.

Assyrtiko

A wave of ambitious wine-makers changed the face of Greek wine in the 1990s, but it took the U.S. until the late 2000s to catch on to exactly how good those wines have become. Try the 2019 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko ($42) the tart citrus flavors contain a hint of seaside salinity. You&aposll be a convert.

Dry Riesling

No, Riesling is not new. But U.S. awareness of the fact that it is not always sweet sure is, ditto that dry Riesling is one of the most versatile wines with food, ever. Head to Germany for affordable bottles from great produc- ers, like the taut, focused 2019 Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken ($28).

Raúl Pérez

No winemaker in Spain has drawn more acclaim in recent years than Raúl Pérez. From his home base in Bierzo, he makes wine throughout northwest Spain to Portugal and beyond, working winemaking magic with Spanish varieties such as Albariño, Godello, Menc໚, and more. His 2018 Raúl Pérez Ultreia Saint Jacques ($20), made from the Menc໚ grape, is one of the best values in wine, period.

Ntsiki Biyela

A college scholarship led Ntsiki Biyela, who grew up in the small village of KwaZulu-Natal, to study winemaking that led to a part-time job at a winery and a post at Stellekaya in Stellenbosch as the first Black woman winemaker in South Africa. There, her wines began to win awards, and today, she runs her own brand, Aslina seek out the cedary, cassis-rich 2019 Aslina Cabernet Sauvignon ($30).

Rolando Herrera

Rolando Herrera makes excellent wine, and he also embodies the American dream. After emigrating from Mexico as a teenager, he got a job as a vineyard worker at Stag&aposs Leap Wine Cellars soon, he was cellar master, and soon after that, he was a winemaker. Today, he owns his own winery, Mi Sueño to taste his work, seek out the lemon-creamy 2017 Mi Sueño Los Carneros Chardonnay ($42).

Sebastián Zuccardi

Think Argentine Malbec has to be big and heavy? Sebastián Zuccardi thinks otherwise. Zuccardi has pushed his family&aposs winery toward using high-altitude vineyards, giving a newfound freshness to their wines, and engaged in exhaustive vineyard studies to allow for distinctive single-vineyard reds. The 2019 Zuccardi Concreto Malbec ($40), floral and peppery, gives a sense of his vision.

Cristiana Tiberio

Abruzzo may be Italy&aposs least known but most exciting wine region one reason for that is Cristiana Tiberio. Her wines have become wine list must-haves in the past few years, particularly her long-aging, single-vineyard Fonte Canale Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo. That wine is pricey, but her basic, citrus-scented 2019 Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo ($20) is also superb and a steal.

Andréa and Robin Mcbride

Here&aposs a fairy-tale: Half sisters Andrບ and Robin McBride grew up separately in Marlborough, New Zealand, and Monterey, California when they met, they found a mutual interest in winemaking. What&aposs no fairy-tale is making it in a business dominated by white men as two Black women: That&aposs where talent, ambition, and incredible drive come in. Seek out their lively 2019 Black Girl Magic Rosé ($20).

Today in Champagne, there are more women chefs des caves and CEOs than ever before, and that&aposs partly thanks to groups such as La Transmission Femmes en Champagne. As Anne Malassagne of Champagne A.R. Lenoble, one of the group&aposs cofounders, says, "I took over our estate from my father in 1993, [and] I had to fight for many years to acquire legitimacy and to gain credibility. It seemed obvious to me that I had a responsibility to help other women in Champagne." She&aposs joined in La Transmission by Vitalie Taittinger, co-owner of Champagne Taittinger Maggie Henriquez, CEO of Champagne Krug and many others. Check out their organization at la-transmission-champagne.com, possibly while sipping a glass of the minerally NV Champagne A.R. Lenoble Rosé Terroirs Chouilly-Bisseuil ($63)—an inspiring wine, for sure.

If there&aposs one stylistic trend that has marked the past seven or eight years, it&aposs a turn away from high-alcohol, super-ripe wines—red or white—toward lighter, more savory styles. Cooler-climate regions earlier harvesting renewed attention paid to wines like򠯪ujolais, once out of fashion for its lightness, and classic Napa Valley producers known more for balance than massiveness. well. Elegance is in, as these four paradigm-shifting categories amply demonstrate. Read More.


The 2021 Wine Lover&rsquos Guide

The past two decades have seen vast changes in the world of wine. Before 2000, the classics were clear: classified Bordeaux, grand cru Burgundy, top Champagnes, Napa Valley Cabernet, a few others. Now, overlooked grapes like Chenin Blanc are standards, volcanic terroirs are hot spots (literally, for Mount Etna), natural wine provokes passionate debate, and many winemakers well below legal age in 2000 have become top talents in the field. So while the old benchmarks are still vital𠅍on&apost turn down Pétrus if someone hands you a glass—here are the regions, grapes, and trends helping to define the new wine world. Seek them out: They&aposll tell you about what wine is today and where it&aposs headed𠅊nd they also happen to be delicious. —Ray Isle

Mount Etna, Sicily

Make wine on an active volcano? Great idea, if you&aposre after the particular character that volcanic soils give to wine (up until the thing erupts, of course). Etna is one of Italian wine&aposs recent success stories, producing aromatic, detailed reds and stony whites unlike anything else from Sicily—or from Italy at all for that matter. Passopisciaro, an early star, remains so on the strength of wines like its ruby-hued, red currant–rich 2018 Passopisciaro Passorosso ($39).

Bekaa Valley, Lebanon

Lebanon&aposs wine culture is ancient, but American awareness of it has only just started to rise. About time: the Bekaa Valley is an ideal place to grow grapes, with warm days, cool nights, and rocky limestone soils. Start with the 2017 Domaine des Tourelles Red ($20), its succulent black currant and mint notes wrapped up in fine-grained tannins, and then explore other names like Ixsir, Château Kefraya, Château Ksara, Château Marsyas, and of course the groundbreaking Chateau Musar.

The Rocks District, Oregon

If there&aposs an award for most appropriately named wine region, the Rocks District wins it. The surface of this subsection of the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley AVA is covered in fist-size stones. But give Syrah vines a chance to take root and you&aposll get magic in return— black-peppery, powerful, savory reds. Buty Winery blends that Syrah with Cabernet Sauvignon for its alluringly spicy 2016 Buty Rediviva of the Stones ($60).

Sta. Rita Hills, California

The first significant vineyard was planted here in 1971, but budding awareness of how great its Pinot Noirs could be hit in the early 2000s, and now its wines are cool-climate benchmarks. Try the 2016 Brewer-Clifton Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($40) to taste the brambly wild berries and faint salinity that characterize these wines.

Georgia

Archaeological findings near Georgia&aposs capital city of Tbilisi show wine being produced here nearly 8,000 years ago on the other hand, U.S. awareness of Georgian wines dates more to, say, 2010. Traditionally made in huge clay qvevri, these skin-contact whites (i.e., orange wines) and vivid reds thrilled sommeliers when they started to appear here. Track down the savory, amber-hued 2019 Orgo Dila-O Rkatsiteli-Mtsvane ($17) to see why.

Sierra De Gredos, Spain

Mountainous and austere, the Sierra de Gredos region west of Madrid started to gain acclaim 10 years or so ago as a source for gorgeous cool-climate Grenache, as young vintners took inspiration from France&aposs legendary Château Rayas to focus on the variety&aposs transparency and grace. The 2019 Comando G La Bruja de Rozas ($30) is characteristic, with its translucent ruby hue and herb-scented wild strawberry flavors.

Santa Cruz Mountains, California

The Santa Cruz Mountains have a storied winemaking history, but it seems only in recent years that wine lovers have realized how amazing the vineyards are. Whether the region does Pinot, Chardonnay, or Cabernet better is an open question, but there&aposs no doubt that the lemon blossom–scented 2017 Mount Eden Vineyards Estate Chardonnay ($60) is as ageworthy and complex as any great white Burgundy.

The Aubechampagne, France

For a long time, the Aube&aposs grapes were used as anonymous components in big-name brands. But recently, this region in Champagne&aposs far south has exploded into view. The Drappier family, which has been here since 1808, provides a great introduction to the Aube&aposs strengths with the Pinot Noir𠄽riven, nonvintage Champagne Drappier Carte d&aposOr ($49).

Swartland, South Africa

Lying along South Africa&aposs western coast, this region of rolling scrubland is also home to extraordinary old-vine Chenin Blancs, Syrahs, and field blends. The Swartland Revolution group of winemakers ignited awareness, pushing a more elegant style that thrilled wine lovers around the world. Founding members Andrea and Chris Mullineux&aposs 2017 Mullineux Syrah ($38), meaty and white peppery, speaks of the place brilliantly.

England

Fifty years ago, southern England was too cold to ripen Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the varieties used for great sparkling wine. Thirty years ago? Not true any- more. And about 15 years ago, English sparkling took off. The best have thrilling acidity and incredible focus, like the Nyetimber Classic Cuvພ Multi-Vintage ($55). It isn&apost inexpensive, but it rivals similarly priced wines from, you know, those French fellows across the Channel.

Once ignored, now powerhouses: these are today&aposs super-successes.

2001: Malbec

Argentina turned Malbec, once a forgotten variety, into one of the world&aposs most popular wines. The U.S. boom started around 2001. The peppery 2018 Catena Malbec ($24) makes it clear why.

2005: Prosecco

Champagne, elegant Prosecco, fun (and far less pricey). There&aposs the recipe for a jet-powered ascent in popularity. The citrusy NV Nino Franco Rustico ($21) is one of the best around.

2007: Grower Champagne

Grower Champagnes (single-estate, family- owned) hit wine lists in the mid-2000s and have never left. Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Rosé de Saignພ ($110) is a stellar example.

2008: Rosé

Imagine: Before the mid- 2000s, dry rosé wine was a thoroughly dead cat- egory. Whispering Angel Rosé ($25), its 2019 vintage juicy with wild strawberry notes, helped change that forever.

2014: Red Blends

Juicy, ripe, and often with a faint hint of sweetness, red blends stormed supermarket shelves in the 2010s. The Prisoner ($40) is the archetype— and far better than many of its imitators.

One major wine trend over recent years has been what could be called a love affair with the distant past. Sometimes that means rediscovering older winemaking approaches sometimes, vintners rescuing for- gotten grape varieties from near extinction. These four wines are star examples of cutting-edge wine-makers using the best of ancient techniques to make brilliant and boundary-pushing bottles.

Orange Wines

When white grapes ferment on their skins, you get the amber hue and tannic notes of orange wines. In the early 2000s, this ancient approach was picked up by vintners in Italy&aposs Friuli region—the savory 2016 Dario Princic Sivi Pinot ($57) is one stellar example.

Pét-Nats

Gently sparkling, often cloudy with yeast particles, and usually lightly sweet, these quaffable bubblies burst back into view in the 2010s, first from France (pét-nat&aposs homeland) and now from everywhere𠅎ven Texas, with the lively 2019 William Chris Pétillant Naturel ($25).

Forgotten Grapes

Greek Malagousia, Spanish Godello, Italy&aposs Nascetta: these nearly extinct grapes have all been rediscovery success sto- ries, thanks to enterprising wine growers. Try the stony, fragrant 2019 Elvio Cogno Anas-Cëtta ($39) to see what drives the desire to save these varieties.

Historic Vineyards

Morgan Twain-Peterson has been at the forefront of a move- ment to save California&aposs historic vineyards from being plowed under. Visit historicvineyard society.org for a list of these sites, maybe while sipping a glass of his luscious 2019 Bedrock Old Vine Zinfandel ($28).

In the realm of agricultural products, vintners throughout the world have been at the forefront of environmental awareness.

Biodynamics

This organic, quasi-spiritual farming approach, which also produces some very good wines, arrived in the wine world in the late 1960s. But it took the magnetic Loire vintner Nicolas Joly&aposs founding of the Return to Terroir group in 2001 to bring broad awareness to it. His gorgeous, minerally 2016 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulພ de Serrant ($122) is arguably still the defining biodynamic wine.

Natural Wine

Wine&aposs most controversial topic in the past decade, natural wine&aposs credo is best described as "nothing added, nothing removed," meaning as little human intervention as possible. It&aposs a walking-on-the- cliff&aposs-edge approach when things go wrong, weirdness results. But when things go right, as with the 2019 Arianna Occhipinti SP68 Rosso ($36), full of intense wild-berry energy, the results can be brilliant.

Green Wineries

In 2006, Oregon&aposs Stoller Winery earned the first LEED Gold certification in the world, a ground- breaking step in the movement toward sustainable, eco-friendly winery structures𠅊 direction soon followed by many others. Plus, the winery&aposs 2018 Stoller Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($35), with its lovely raspberry fruit and silky texture, shows that doing ecological good is no impediment to making excellent wine.

Grüner Veltliner

Austrian Grüner shot to visibility in the early 2000s but then took a back seat to other hot new varieties. In the 2010s, it rose again. The best Grüners are world-class, and even entry-level wines from top producers, like the flinty, spicy 2019 Alzinger Ried Mühlpoint Federspiel ($29), can be sublime.

Albariño

Minerally, even saline, with flavors that shift with the vintages between riper pineapple and sharper grapefruit, Albariño is one of the world&aposs greatest seafood wines and, at this point, Spain&aposs signature white grape. The 2019 Pazo Señorans ($24)— floral, citrusy, vivid—is a benchmark example.

Chenin Blanc

Never has a grape so con- signed to the realm of "eh, whatever" so completely about-faced into being obsessed over by sommeliers and wine lovers alike. To see why, check out the 2019 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups Remus ($31), with its stony green-apple fruit, from France&aposs Loire Valley.

Assyrtiko

A wave of ambitious wine-makers changed the face of Greek wine in the 1990s, but it took the U.S. until the late 2000s to catch on to exactly how good those wines have become. Try the 2019 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko ($42) the tart citrus flavors contain a hint of seaside salinity. You&aposll be a convert.

Dry Riesling

No, Riesling is not new. But U.S. awareness of the fact that it is not always sweet sure is, ditto that dry Riesling is one of the most versatile wines with food, ever. Head to Germany for affordable bottles from great produc- ers, like the taut, focused 2019 Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken ($28).

Raúl Pérez

No winemaker in Spain has drawn more acclaim in recent years than Raúl Pérez. From his home base in Bierzo, he makes wine throughout northwest Spain to Portugal and beyond, working winemaking magic with Spanish varieties such as Albariño, Godello, Menc໚, and more. His 2018 Raúl Pérez Ultreia Saint Jacques ($20), made from the Menc໚ grape, is one of the best values in wine, period.

Ntsiki Biyela

A college scholarship led Ntsiki Biyela, who grew up in the small village of KwaZulu-Natal, to study winemaking that led to a part-time job at a winery and a post at Stellekaya in Stellenbosch as the first Black woman winemaker in South Africa. There, her wines began to win awards, and today, she runs her own brand, Aslina seek out the cedary, cassis-rich 2019 Aslina Cabernet Sauvignon ($30).

Rolando Herrera

Rolando Herrera makes excellent wine, and he also embodies the American dream. After emigrating from Mexico as a teenager, he got a job as a vineyard worker at Stag&aposs Leap Wine Cellars soon, he was cellar master, and soon after that, he was a winemaker. Today, he owns his own winery, Mi Sueño to taste his work, seek out the lemon-creamy 2017 Mi Sueño Los Carneros Chardonnay ($42).

Sebastián Zuccardi

Think Argentine Malbec has to be big and heavy? Sebastián Zuccardi thinks otherwise. Zuccardi has pushed his family&aposs winery toward using high-altitude vineyards, giving a newfound freshness to their wines, and engaged in exhaustive vineyard studies to allow for distinctive single-vineyard reds. The 2019 Zuccardi Concreto Malbec ($40), floral and peppery, gives a sense of his vision.

Cristiana Tiberio

Abruzzo may be Italy&aposs least known but most exciting wine region one reason for that is Cristiana Tiberio. Her wines have become wine list must-haves in the past few years, particularly her long-aging, single-vineyard Fonte Canale Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo. That wine is pricey, but her basic, citrus-scented 2019 Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo ($20) is also superb and a steal.

Andréa and Robin Mcbride

Here&aposs a fairy-tale: Half sisters Andrບ and Robin McBride grew up separately in Marlborough, New Zealand, and Monterey, California when they met, they found a mutual interest in winemaking. What&aposs no fairy-tale is making it in a business dominated by white men as two Black women: That&aposs where talent, ambition, and incredible drive come in. Seek out their lively 2019 Black Girl Magic Rosé ($20).

Today in Champagne, there are more women chefs des caves and CEOs than ever before, and that&aposs partly thanks to groups such as La Transmission Femmes en Champagne. As Anne Malassagne of Champagne A.R. Lenoble, one of the group&aposs cofounders, says, "I took over our estate from my father in 1993, [and] I had to fight for many years to acquire legitimacy and to gain credibility. It seemed obvious to me that I had a responsibility to help other women in Champagne." She&aposs joined in La Transmission by Vitalie Taittinger, co-owner of Champagne Taittinger Maggie Henriquez, CEO of Champagne Krug and many others. Check out their organization at la-transmission-champagne.com, possibly while sipping a glass of the minerally NV Champagne A.R. Lenoble Rosé Terroirs Chouilly-Bisseuil ($63)—an inspiring wine, for sure.

If there&aposs one stylistic trend that has marked the past seven or eight years, it&aposs a turn away from high-alcohol, super-ripe wines—red or white—toward lighter, more savory styles. Cooler-climate regions earlier harvesting renewed attention paid to wines like򠯪ujolais, once out of fashion for its lightness, and classic Napa Valley producers known more for balance than massiveness. well. Elegance is in, as these four paradigm-shifting categories amply demonstrate. Read More.


The 2021 Wine Lover&rsquos Guide

The past two decades have seen vast changes in the world of wine. Before 2000, the classics were clear: classified Bordeaux, grand cru Burgundy, top Champagnes, Napa Valley Cabernet, a few others. Now, overlooked grapes like Chenin Blanc are standards, volcanic terroirs are hot spots (literally, for Mount Etna), natural wine provokes passionate debate, and many winemakers well below legal age in 2000 have become top talents in the field. So while the old benchmarks are still vital𠅍on&apost turn down Pétrus if someone hands you a glass—here are the regions, grapes, and trends helping to define the new wine world. Seek them out: They&aposll tell you about what wine is today and where it&aposs headed𠅊nd they also happen to be delicious. —Ray Isle

Mount Etna, Sicily

Make wine on an active volcano? Great idea, if you&aposre after the particular character that volcanic soils give to wine (up until the thing erupts, of course). Etna is one of Italian wine&aposs recent success stories, producing aromatic, detailed reds and stony whites unlike anything else from Sicily—or from Italy at all for that matter. Passopisciaro, an early star, remains so on the strength of wines like its ruby-hued, red currant–rich 2018 Passopisciaro Passorosso ($39).

Bekaa Valley, Lebanon

Lebanon&aposs wine culture is ancient, but American awareness of it has only just started to rise. About time: the Bekaa Valley is an ideal place to grow grapes, with warm days, cool nights, and rocky limestone soils. Start with the 2017 Domaine des Tourelles Red ($20), its succulent black currant and mint notes wrapped up in fine-grained tannins, and then explore other names like Ixsir, Château Kefraya, Château Ksara, Château Marsyas, and of course the groundbreaking Chateau Musar.

The Rocks District, Oregon

If there&aposs an award for most appropriately named wine region, the Rocks District wins it. The surface of this subsection of the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley AVA is covered in fist-size stones. But give Syrah vines a chance to take root and you&aposll get magic in return— black-peppery, powerful, savory reds. Buty Winery blends that Syrah with Cabernet Sauvignon for its alluringly spicy 2016 Buty Rediviva of the Stones ($60).

Sta. Rita Hills, California

The first significant vineyard was planted here in 1971, but budding awareness of how great its Pinot Noirs could be hit in the early 2000s, and now its wines are cool-climate benchmarks. Try the 2016 Brewer-Clifton Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($40) to taste the brambly wild berries and faint salinity that characterize these wines.

Georgia

Archaeological findings near Georgia&aposs capital city of Tbilisi show wine being produced here nearly 8,000 years ago on the other hand, U.S. awareness of Georgian wines dates more to, say, 2010. Traditionally made in huge clay qvevri, these skin-contact whites (i.e., orange wines) and vivid reds thrilled sommeliers when they started to appear here. Track down the savory, amber-hued 2019 Orgo Dila-O Rkatsiteli-Mtsvane ($17) to see why.

Sierra De Gredos, Spain

Mountainous and austere, the Sierra de Gredos region west of Madrid started to gain acclaim 10 years or so ago as a source for gorgeous cool-climate Grenache, as young vintners took inspiration from France&aposs legendary Château Rayas to focus on the variety&aposs transparency and grace. The 2019 Comando G La Bruja de Rozas ($30) is characteristic, with its translucent ruby hue and herb-scented wild strawberry flavors.

Santa Cruz Mountains, California

The Santa Cruz Mountains have a storied winemaking history, but it seems only in recent years that wine lovers have realized how amazing the vineyards are. Whether the region does Pinot, Chardonnay, or Cabernet better is an open question, but there&aposs no doubt that the lemon blossom–scented 2017 Mount Eden Vineyards Estate Chardonnay ($60) is as ageworthy and complex as any great white Burgundy.

The Aubechampagne, France

For a long time, the Aube&aposs grapes were used as anonymous components in big-name brands. But recently, this region in Champagne&aposs far south has exploded into view. The Drappier family, which has been here since 1808, provides a great introduction to the Aube&aposs strengths with the Pinot Noir𠄽riven, nonvintage Champagne Drappier Carte d&aposOr ($49).

Swartland, South Africa

Lying along South Africa&aposs western coast, this region of rolling scrubland is also home to extraordinary old-vine Chenin Blancs, Syrahs, and field blends. The Swartland Revolution group of winemakers ignited awareness, pushing a more elegant style that thrilled wine lovers around the world. Founding members Andrea and Chris Mullineux&aposs 2017 Mullineux Syrah ($38), meaty and white peppery, speaks of the place brilliantly.

England

Fifty years ago, southern England was too cold to ripen Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the varieties used for great sparkling wine. Thirty years ago? Not true any- more. And about 15 years ago, English sparkling took off. The best have thrilling acidity and incredible focus, like the Nyetimber Classic Cuvພ Multi-Vintage ($55). It isn&apost inexpensive, but it rivals similarly priced wines from, you know, those French fellows across the Channel.

Once ignored, now powerhouses: these are today&aposs super-successes.

2001: Malbec

Argentina turned Malbec, once a forgotten variety, into one of the world&aposs most popular wines. The U.S. boom started around 2001. The peppery 2018 Catena Malbec ($24) makes it clear why.

2005: Prosecco

Champagne, elegant Prosecco, fun (and far less pricey). There&aposs the recipe for a jet-powered ascent in popularity. The citrusy NV Nino Franco Rustico ($21) is one of the best around.

2007: Grower Champagne

Grower Champagnes (single-estate, family- owned) hit wine lists in the mid-2000s and have never left. Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Rosé de Saignພ ($110) is a stellar example.

2008: Rosé

Imagine: Before the mid- 2000s, dry rosé wine was a thoroughly dead cat- egory. Whispering Angel Rosé ($25), its 2019 vintage juicy with wild strawberry notes, helped change that forever.

2014: Red Blends

Juicy, ripe, and often with a faint hint of sweetness, red blends stormed supermarket shelves in the 2010s. The Prisoner ($40) is the archetype— and far better than many of its imitators.

One major wine trend over recent years has been what could be called a love affair with the distant past. Sometimes that means rediscovering older winemaking approaches sometimes, vintners rescuing for- gotten grape varieties from near extinction. These four wines are star examples of cutting-edge wine-makers using the best of ancient techniques to make brilliant and boundary-pushing bottles.

Orange Wines

When white grapes ferment on their skins, you get the amber hue and tannic notes of orange wines. In the early 2000s, this ancient approach was picked up by vintners in Italy&aposs Friuli region—the savory 2016 Dario Princic Sivi Pinot ($57) is one stellar example.

Pét-Nats

Gently sparkling, often cloudy with yeast particles, and usually lightly sweet, these quaffable bubblies burst back into view in the 2010s, first from France (pét-nat&aposs homeland) and now from everywhere𠅎ven Texas, with the lively 2019 William Chris Pétillant Naturel ($25).

Forgotten Grapes

Greek Malagousia, Spanish Godello, Italy&aposs Nascetta: these nearly extinct grapes have all been rediscovery success sto- ries, thanks to enterprising wine growers. Try the stony, fragrant 2019 Elvio Cogno Anas-Cëtta ($39) to see what drives the desire to save these varieties.

Historic Vineyards

Morgan Twain-Peterson has been at the forefront of a move- ment to save California&aposs historic vineyards from being plowed under. Visit historicvineyard society.org for a list of these sites, maybe while sipping a glass of his luscious 2019 Bedrock Old Vine Zinfandel ($28).

In the realm of agricultural products, vintners throughout the world have been at the forefront of environmental awareness.

Biodynamics

This organic, quasi-spiritual farming approach, which also produces some very good wines, arrived in the wine world in the late 1960s. But it took the magnetic Loire vintner Nicolas Joly&aposs founding of the Return to Terroir group in 2001 to bring broad awareness to it. His gorgeous, minerally 2016 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulພ de Serrant ($122) is arguably still the defining biodynamic wine.

Natural Wine

Wine&aposs most controversial topic in the past decade, natural wine&aposs credo is best described as "nothing added, nothing removed," meaning as little human intervention as possible. It&aposs a walking-on-the- cliff&aposs-edge approach when things go wrong, weirdness results. But when things go right, as with the 2019 Arianna Occhipinti SP68 Rosso ($36), full of intense wild-berry energy, the results can be brilliant.

Green Wineries

In 2006, Oregon&aposs Stoller Winery earned the first LEED Gold certification in the world, a ground- breaking step in the movement toward sustainable, eco-friendly winery structures𠅊 direction soon followed by many others. Plus, the winery&aposs 2018 Stoller Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($35), with its lovely raspberry fruit and silky texture, shows that doing ecological good is no impediment to making excellent wine.

Grüner Veltliner

Austrian Grüner shot to visibility in the early 2000s but then took a back seat to other hot new varieties. In the 2010s, it rose again. The best Grüners are world-class, and even entry-level wines from top producers, like the flinty, spicy 2019 Alzinger Ried Mühlpoint Federspiel ($29), can be sublime.

Albariño

Minerally, even saline, with flavors that shift with the vintages between riper pineapple and sharper grapefruit, Albariño is one of the world&aposs greatest seafood wines and, at this point, Spain&aposs signature white grape. The 2019 Pazo Señorans ($24)— floral, citrusy, vivid—is a benchmark example.

Chenin Blanc

Never has a grape so con- signed to the realm of "eh, whatever" so completely about-faced into being obsessed over by sommeliers and wine lovers alike. To see why, check out the 2019 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups Remus ($31), with its stony green-apple fruit, from France&aposs Loire Valley.

Assyrtiko

A wave of ambitious wine-makers changed the face of Greek wine in the 1990s, but it took the U.S. until the late 2000s to catch on to exactly how good those wines have become. Try the 2019 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko ($42) the tart citrus flavors contain a hint of seaside salinity. You&aposll be a convert.

Dry Riesling

No, Riesling is not new. But U.S. awareness of the fact that it is not always sweet sure is, ditto that dry Riesling is one of the most versatile wines with food, ever. Head to Germany for affordable bottles from great produc- ers, like the taut, focused 2019 Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken ($28).

Raúl Pérez

No winemaker in Spain has drawn more acclaim in recent years than Raúl Pérez. From his home base in Bierzo, he makes wine throughout northwest Spain to Portugal and beyond, working winemaking magic with Spanish varieties such as Albariño, Godello, Menc໚, and more. His 2018 Raúl Pérez Ultreia Saint Jacques ($20), made from the Menc໚ grape, is one of the best values in wine, period.

Ntsiki Biyela

A college scholarship led Ntsiki Biyela, who grew up in the small village of KwaZulu-Natal, to study winemaking that led to a part-time job at a winery and a post at Stellekaya in Stellenbosch as the first Black woman winemaker in South Africa. There, her wines began to win awards, and today, she runs her own brand, Aslina seek out the cedary, cassis-rich 2019 Aslina Cabernet Sauvignon ($30).

Rolando Herrera

Rolando Herrera makes excellent wine, and he also embodies the American dream. After emigrating from Mexico as a teenager, he got a job as a vineyard worker at Stag&aposs Leap Wine Cellars soon, he was cellar master, and soon after that, he was a winemaker. Today, he owns his own winery, Mi Sueño to taste his work, seek out the lemon-creamy 2017 Mi Sueño Los Carneros Chardonnay ($42).

Sebastián Zuccardi

Think Argentine Malbec has to be big and heavy? Sebastián Zuccardi thinks otherwise. Zuccardi has pushed his family&aposs winery toward using high-altitude vineyards, giving a newfound freshness to their wines, and engaged in exhaustive vineyard studies to allow for distinctive single-vineyard reds. The 2019 Zuccardi Concreto Malbec ($40), floral and peppery, gives a sense of his vision.

Cristiana Tiberio

Abruzzo may be Italy&aposs least known but most exciting wine region one reason for that is Cristiana Tiberio. Her wines have become wine list must-haves in the past few years, particularly her long-aging, single-vineyard Fonte Canale Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo. That wine is pricey, but her basic, citrus-scented 2019 Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo ($20) is also superb and a steal.

Andréa and Robin Mcbride

Here&aposs a fairy-tale: Half sisters Andrບ and Robin McBride grew up separately in Marlborough, New Zealand, and Monterey, California when they met, they found a mutual interest in winemaking. What&aposs no fairy-tale is making it in a business dominated by white men as two Black women: That&aposs where talent, ambition, and incredible drive come in. Seek out their lively 2019 Black Girl Magic Rosé ($20).

Today in Champagne, there are more women chefs des caves and CEOs than ever before, and that&aposs partly thanks to groups such as La Transmission Femmes en Champagne. As Anne Malassagne of Champagne A.R. Lenoble, one of the group&aposs cofounders, says, "I took over our estate from my father in 1993, [and] I had to fight for many years to acquire legitimacy and to gain credibility. It seemed obvious to me that I had a responsibility to help other women in Champagne." She&aposs joined in La Transmission by Vitalie Taittinger, co-owner of Champagne Taittinger Maggie Henriquez, CEO of Champagne Krug and many others. Check out their organization at la-transmission-champagne.com, possibly while sipping a glass of the minerally NV Champagne A.R. Lenoble Rosé Terroirs Chouilly-Bisseuil ($63)—an inspiring wine, for sure.

If there&aposs one stylistic trend that has marked the past seven or eight years, it&aposs a turn away from high-alcohol, super-ripe wines—red or white—toward lighter, more savory styles. Cooler-climate regions earlier harvesting renewed attention paid to wines like򠯪ujolais, once out of fashion for its lightness, and classic Napa Valley producers known more for balance than massiveness. well. Elegance is in, as these four paradigm-shifting categories amply demonstrate. Read More.


The 2021 Wine Lover&rsquos Guide

The past two decades have seen vast changes in the world of wine. Before 2000, the classics were clear: classified Bordeaux, grand cru Burgundy, top Champagnes, Napa Valley Cabernet, a few others. Now, overlooked grapes like Chenin Blanc are standards, volcanic terroirs are hot spots (literally, for Mount Etna), natural wine provokes passionate debate, and many winemakers well below legal age in 2000 have become top talents in the field. So while the old benchmarks are still vital𠅍on&apost turn down Pétrus if someone hands you a glass—here are the regions, grapes, and trends helping to define the new wine world. Seek them out: They&aposll tell you about what wine is today and where it&aposs headed𠅊nd they also happen to be delicious. —Ray Isle

Mount Etna, Sicily

Make wine on an active volcano? Great idea, if you&aposre after the particular character that volcanic soils give to wine (up until the thing erupts, of course). Etna is one of Italian wine&aposs recent success stories, producing aromatic, detailed reds and stony whites unlike anything else from Sicily—or from Italy at all for that matter. Passopisciaro, an early star, remains so on the strength of wines like its ruby-hued, red currant–rich 2018 Passopisciaro Passorosso ($39).

Bekaa Valley, Lebanon

Lebanon&aposs wine culture is ancient, but American awareness of it has only just started to rise. About time: the Bekaa Valley is an ideal place to grow grapes, with warm days, cool nights, and rocky limestone soils. Start with the 2017 Domaine des Tourelles Red ($20), its succulent black currant and mint notes wrapped up in fine-grained tannins, and then explore other names like Ixsir, Château Kefraya, Château Ksara, Château Marsyas, and of course the groundbreaking Chateau Musar.

The Rocks District, Oregon

If there&aposs an award for most appropriately named wine region, the Rocks District wins it. The surface of this subsection of the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley AVA is covered in fist-size stones. But give Syrah vines a chance to take root and you&aposll get magic in return— black-peppery, powerful, savory reds. Buty Winery blends that Syrah with Cabernet Sauvignon for its alluringly spicy 2016 Buty Rediviva of the Stones ($60).

Sta. Rita Hills, California

The first significant vineyard was planted here in 1971, but budding awareness of how great its Pinot Noirs could be hit in the early 2000s, and now its wines are cool-climate benchmarks. Try the 2016 Brewer-Clifton Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($40) to taste the brambly wild berries and faint salinity that characterize these wines.

Georgia

Archaeological findings near Georgia&aposs capital city of Tbilisi show wine being produced here nearly 8,000 years ago on the other hand, U.S. awareness of Georgian wines dates more to, say, 2010. Traditionally made in huge clay qvevri, these skin-contact whites (i.e., orange wines) and vivid reds thrilled sommeliers when they started to appear here. Track down the savory, amber-hued 2019 Orgo Dila-O Rkatsiteli-Mtsvane ($17) to see why.

Sierra De Gredos, Spain

Mountainous and austere, the Sierra de Gredos region west of Madrid started to gain acclaim 10 years or so ago as a source for gorgeous cool-climate Grenache, as young vintners took inspiration from France&aposs legendary Château Rayas to focus on the variety&aposs transparency and grace. The 2019 Comando G La Bruja de Rozas ($30) is characteristic, with its translucent ruby hue and herb-scented wild strawberry flavors.

Santa Cruz Mountains, California

The Santa Cruz Mountains have a storied winemaking history, but it seems only in recent years that wine lovers have realized how amazing the vineyards are. Whether the region does Pinot, Chardonnay, or Cabernet better is an open question, but there&aposs no doubt that the lemon blossom–scented 2017 Mount Eden Vineyards Estate Chardonnay ($60) is as ageworthy and complex as any great white Burgundy.

The Aubechampagne, France

For a long time, the Aube&aposs grapes were used as anonymous components in big-name brands. But recently, this region in Champagne&aposs far south has exploded into view. The Drappier family, which has been here since 1808, provides a great introduction to the Aube&aposs strengths with the Pinot Noir𠄽riven, nonvintage Champagne Drappier Carte d&aposOr ($49).

Swartland, South Africa

Lying along South Africa&aposs western coast, this region of rolling scrubland is also home to extraordinary old-vine Chenin Blancs, Syrahs, and field blends. The Swartland Revolution group of winemakers ignited awareness, pushing a more elegant style that thrilled wine lovers around the world. Founding members Andrea and Chris Mullineux&aposs 2017 Mullineux Syrah ($38), meaty and white peppery, speaks of the place brilliantly.

England

Fifty years ago, southern England was too cold to ripen Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the varieties used for great sparkling wine. Thirty years ago? Not true any- more. And about 15 years ago, English sparkling took off. The best have thrilling acidity and incredible focus, like the Nyetimber Classic Cuvພ Multi-Vintage ($55). It isn&apost inexpensive, but it rivals similarly priced wines from, you know, those French fellows across the Channel.

Once ignored, now powerhouses: these are today&aposs super-successes.

2001: Malbec

Argentina turned Malbec, once a forgotten variety, into one of the world&aposs most popular wines. The U.S. boom started around 2001. The peppery 2018 Catena Malbec ($24) makes it clear why.

2005: Prosecco

Champagne, elegant Prosecco, fun (and far less pricey). There&aposs the recipe for a jet-powered ascent in popularity. The citrusy NV Nino Franco Rustico ($21) is one of the best around.

2007: Grower Champagne

Grower Champagnes (single-estate, family- owned) hit wine lists in the mid-2000s and have never left. Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Rosé de Saignພ ($110) is a stellar example.

2008: Rosé

Imagine: Before the mid- 2000s, dry rosé wine was a thoroughly dead cat- egory. Whispering Angel Rosé ($25), its 2019 vintage juicy with wild strawberry notes, helped change that forever.

2014: Red Blends

Juicy, ripe, and often with a faint hint of sweetness, red blends stormed supermarket shelves in the 2010s. The Prisoner ($40) is the archetype— and far better than many of its imitators.

One major wine trend over recent years has been what could be called a love affair with the distant past. Sometimes that means rediscovering older winemaking approaches sometimes, vintners rescuing for- gotten grape varieties from near extinction. These four wines are star examples of cutting-edge wine-makers using the best of ancient techniques to make brilliant and boundary-pushing bottles.

Orange Wines

When white grapes ferment on their skins, you get the amber hue and tannic notes of orange wines. In the early 2000s, this ancient approach was picked up by vintners in Italy&aposs Friuli region—the savory 2016 Dario Princic Sivi Pinot ($57) is one stellar example.

Pét-Nats

Gently sparkling, often cloudy with yeast particles, and usually lightly sweet, these quaffable bubblies burst back into view in the 2010s, first from France (pét-nat&aposs homeland) and now from everywhere𠅎ven Texas, with the lively 2019 William Chris Pétillant Naturel ($25).

Forgotten Grapes

Greek Malagousia, Spanish Godello, Italy&aposs Nascetta: these nearly extinct grapes have all been rediscovery success sto- ries, thanks to enterprising wine growers. Try the stony, fragrant 2019 Elvio Cogno Anas-Cëtta ($39) to see what drives the desire to save these varieties.

Historic Vineyards

Morgan Twain-Peterson has been at the forefront of a move- ment to save California&aposs historic vineyards from being plowed under. Visit historicvineyard society.org for a list of these sites, maybe while sipping a glass of his luscious 2019 Bedrock Old Vine Zinfandel ($28).

In the realm of agricultural products, vintners throughout the world have been at the forefront of environmental awareness.

Biodynamics

This organic, quasi-spiritual farming approach, which also produces some very good wines, arrived in the wine world in the late 1960s. But it took the magnetic Loire vintner Nicolas Joly&aposs founding of the Return to Terroir group in 2001 to bring broad awareness to it. His gorgeous, minerally 2016 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulພ de Serrant ($122) is arguably still the defining biodynamic wine.

Natural Wine

Wine&aposs most controversial topic in the past decade, natural wine&aposs credo is best described as "nothing added, nothing removed," meaning as little human intervention as possible. It&aposs a walking-on-the- cliff&aposs-edge approach when things go wrong, weirdness results. But when things go right, as with the 2019 Arianna Occhipinti SP68 Rosso ($36), full of intense wild-berry energy, the results can be brilliant.

Green Wineries

In 2006, Oregon&aposs Stoller Winery earned the first LEED Gold certification in the world, a ground- breaking step in the movement toward sustainable, eco-friendly winery structures𠅊 direction soon followed by many others. Plus, the winery&aposs 2018 Stoller Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($35), with its lovely raspberry fruit and silky texture, shows that doing ecological good is no impediment to making excellent wine.

Grüner Veltliner

Austrian Grüner shot to visibility in the early 2000s but then took a back seat to other hot new varieties. In the 2010s, it rose again. The best Grüners are world-class, and even entry-level wines from top producers, like the flinty, spicy 2019 Alzinger Ried Mühlpoint Federspiel ($29), can be sublime.

Albariño

Minerally, even saline, with flavors that shift with the vintages between riper pineapple and sharper grapefruit, Albariño is one of the world&aposs greatest seafood wines and, at this point, Spain&aposs signature white grape. The 2019 Pazo Señorans ($24)— floral, citrusy, vivid—is a benchmark example.

Chenin Blanc

Never has a grape so con- signed to the realm of "eh, whatever" so completely about-faced into being obsessed over by sommeliers and wine lovers alike. To see why, check out the 2019 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups Remus ($31), with its stony green-apple fruit, from France&aposs Loire Valley.

Assyrtiko

A wave of ambitious wine-makers changed the face of Greek wine in the 1990s, but it took the U.S. until the late 2000s to catch on to exactly how good those wines have become. Try the 2019 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko ($42) the tart citrus flavors contain a hint of seaside salinity. You&aposll be a convert.

Dry Riesling

No, Riesling is not new. But U.S. awareness of the fact that it is not always sweet sure is, ditto that dry Riesling is one of the most versatile wines with food, ever. Head to Germany for affordable bottles from great produc- ers, like the taut, focused 2019 Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken ($28).

Raúl Pérez

No winemaker in Spain has drawn more acclaim in recent years than Raúl Pérez. From his home base in Bierzo, he makes wine throughout northwest Spain to Portugal and beyond, working winemaking magic with Spanish varieties such as Albariño, Godello, Menc໚, and more. His 2018 Raúl Pérez Ultreia Saint Jacques ($20), made from the Menc໚ grape, is one of the best values in wine, period.

Ntsiki Biyela

A college scholarship led Ntsiki Biyela, who grew up in the small village of KwaZulu-Natal, to study winemaking that led to a part-time job at a winery and a post at Stellekaya in Stellenbosch as the first Black woman winemaker in South Africa. There, her wines began to win awards, and today, she runs her own brand, Aslina seek out the cedary, cassis-rich 2019 Aslina Cabernet Sauvignon ($30).

Rolando Herrera

Rolando Herrera makes excellent wine, and he also embodies the American dream. After emigrating from Mexico as a teenager, he got a job as a vineyard worker at Stag&aposs Leap Wine Cellars soon, he was cellar master, and soon after that, he was a winemaker. Today, he owns his own winery, Mi Sueño to taste his work, seek out the lemon-creamy 2017 Mi Sueño Los Carneros Chardonnay ($42).

Sebastián Zuccardi

Think Argentine Malbec has to be big and heavy? Sebastián Zuccardi thinks otherwise. Zuccardi has pushed his family&aposs winery toward using high-altitude vineyards, giving a newfound freshness to their wines, and engaged in exhaustive vineyard studies to allow for distinctive single-vineyard reds. The 2019 Zuccardi Concreto Malbec ($40), floral and peppery, gives a sense of his vision.

Cristiana Tiberio

Abruzzo may be Italy&aposs least known but most exciting wine region one reason for that is Cristiana Tiberio. Her wines have become wine list must-haves in the past few years, particularly her long-aging, single-vineyard Fonte Canale Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo. That wine is pricey, but her basic, citrus-scented 2019 Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo ($20) is also superb and a steal.

Andréa and Robin Mcbride

Here&aposs a fairy-tale: Half sisters Andrບ and Robin McBride grew up separately in Marlborough, New Zealand, and Monterey, California when they met, they found a mutual interest in winemaking. What&aposs no fairy-tale is making it in a business dominated by white men as two Black women: That&aposs where talent, ambition, and incredible drive come in. Seek out their lively 2019 Black Girl Magic Rosé ($20).

Today in Champagne, there are more women chefs des caves and CEOs than ever before, and that&aposs partly thanks to groups such as La Transmission Femmes en Champagne. As Anne Malassagne of Champagne A.R. Lenoble, one of the group&aposs cofounders, says, "I took over our estate from my father in 1993, [and] I had to fight for many years to acquire legitimacy and to gain credibility. It seemed obvious to me that I had a responsibility to help other women in Champagne." She&aposs joined in La Transmission by Vitalie Taittinger, co-owner of Champagne Taittinger Maggie Henriquez, CEO of Champagne Krug and many others. Check out their organization at la-transmission-champagne.com, possibly while sipping a glass of the minerally NV Champagne A.R. Lenoble Rosé Terroirs Chouilly-Bisseuil ($63)—an inspiring wine, for sure.

If there&aposs one stylistic trend that has marked the past seven or eight years, it&aposs a turn away from high-alcohol, super-ripe wines—red or white—toward lighter, more savory styles. Cooler-climate regions earlier harvesting renewed attention paid to wines like򠯪ujolais, once out of fashion for its lightness, and classic Napa Valley producers known more for balance than massiveness. well. Elegance is in, as these four paradigm-shifting categories amply demonstrate. Read More.


The 2021 Wine Lover&rsquos Guide

The past two decades have seen vast changes in the world of wine. Before 2000, the classics were clear: classified Bordeaux, grand cru Burgundy, top Champagnes, Napa Valley Cabernet, a few others. Now, overlooked grapes like Chenin Blanc are standards, volcanic terroirs are hot spots (literally, for Mount Etna), natural wine provokes passionate debate, and many winemakers well below legal age in 2000 have become top talents in the field. So while the old benchmarks are still vital𠅍on&apost turn down Pétrus if someone hands you a glass—here are the regions, grapes, and trends helping to define the new wine world. Seek them out: They&aposll tell you about what wine is today and where it&aposs headed𠅊nd they also happen to be delicious. —Ray Isle

Mount Etna, Sicily

Make wine on an active volcano? Great idea, if you&aposre after the particular character that volcanic soils give to wine (up until the thing erupts, of course). Etna is one of Italian wine&aposs recent success stories, producing aromatic, detailed reds and stony whites unlike anything else from Sicily—or from Italy at all for that matter. Passopisciaro, an early star, remains so on the strength of wines like its ruby-hued, red currant–rich 2018 Passopisciaro Passorosso ($39).

Bekaa Valley, Lebanon

Lebanon&aposs wine culture is ancient, but American awareness of it has only just started to rise. About time: the Bekaa Valley is an ideal place to grow grapes, with warm days, cool nights, and rocky limestone soils. Start with the 2017 Domaine des Tourelles Red ($20), its succulent black currant and mint notes wrapped up in fine-grained tannins, and then explore other names like Ixsir, Château Kefraya, Château Ksara, Château Marsyas, and of course the groundbreaking Chateau Musar.

The Rocks District, Oregon

If there&aposs an award for most appropriately named wine region, the Rocks District wins it. The surface of this subsection of the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley AVA is covered in fist-size stones. But give Syrah vines a chance to take root and you&aposll get magic in return— black-peppery, powerful, savory reds. Buty Winery blends that Syrah with Cabernet Sauvignon for its alluringly spicy 2016 Buty Rediviva of the Stones ($60).

Sta. Rita Hills, California

The first significant vineyard was planted here in 1971, but budding awareness of how great its Pinot Noirs could be hit in the early 2000s, and now its wines are cool-climate benchmarks. Try the 2016 Brewer-Clifton Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($40) to taste the brambly wild berries and faint salinity that characterize these wines.

Georgia

Archaeological findings near Georgia&aposs capital city of Tbilisi show wine being produced here nearly 8,000 years ago on the other hand, U.S. awareness of Georgian wines dates more to, say, 2010. Traditionally made in huge clay qvevri, these skin-contact whites (i.e., orange wines) and vivid reds thrilled sommeliers when they started to appear here. Track down the savory, amber-hued 2019 Orgo Dila-O Rkatsiteli-Mtsvane ($17) to see why.

Sierra De Gredos, Spain

Mountainous and austere, the Sierra de Gredos region west of Madrid started to gain acclaim 10 years or so ago as a source for gorgeous cool-climate Grenache, as young vintners took inspiration from France&aposs legendary Château Rayas to focus on the variety&aposs transparency and grace. The 2019 Comando G La Bruja de Rozas ($30) is characteristic, with its translucent ruby hue and herb-scented wild strawberry flavors.

Santa Cruz Mountains, California

The Santa Cruz Mountains have a storied winemaking history, but it seems only in recent years that wine lovers have realized how amazing the vineyards are. Whether the region does Pinot, Chardonnay, or Cabernet better is an open question, but there&aposs no doubt that the lemon blossom–scented 2017 Mount Eden Vineyards Estate Chardonnay ($60) is as ageworthy and complex as any great white Burgundy.

The Aubechampagne, France

For a long time, the Aube&aposs grapes were used as anonymous components in big-name brands. But recently, this region in Champagne&aposs far south has exploded into view. The Drappier family, which has been here since 1808, provides a great introduction to the Aube&aposs strengths with the Pinot Noir𠄽riven, nonvintage Champagne Drappier Carte d&aposOr ($49).

Swartland, South Africa

Lying along South Africa&aposs western coast, this region of rolling scrubland is also home to extraordinary old-vine Chenin Blancs, Syrahs, and field blends. The Swartland Revolution group of winemakers ignited awareness, pushing a more elegant style that thrilled wine lovers around the world. Founding members Andrea and Chris Mullineux&aposs 2017 Mullineux Syrah ($38), meaty and white peppery, speaks of the place brilliantly.

England

Fifty years ago, southern England was too cold to ripen Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the varieties used for great sparkling wine. Thirty years ago? Not true any- more. And about 15 years ago, English sparkling took off. The best have thrilling acidity and incredible focus, like the Nyetimber Classic Cuvພ Multi-Vintage ($55). It isn&apost inexpensive, but it rivals similarly priced wines from, you know, those French fellows across the Channel.

Once ignored, now powerhouses: these are today&aposs super-successes.

2001: Malbec

Argentina turned Malbec, once a forgotten variety, into one of the world&aposs most popular wines. The U.S. boom started around 2001. The peppery 2018 Catena Malbec ($24) makes it clear why.

2005: Prosecco

Champagne, elegant Prosecco, fun (and far less pricey). There&aposs the recipe for a jet-powered ascent in popularity. The citrusy NV Nino Franco Rustico ($21) is one of the best around.

2007: Grower Champagne

Grower Champagnes (single-estate, family- owned) hit wine lists in the mid-2000s and have never left. Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Rosé de Saignພ ($110) is a stellar example.

2008: Rosé

Imagine: Before the mid- 2000s, dry rosé wine was a thoroughly dead cat- egory. Whispering Angel Rosé ($25), its 2019 vintage juicy with wild strawberry notes, helped change that forever.

2014: Red Blends

Juicy, ripe, and often with a faint hint of sweetness, red blends stormed supermarket shelves in the 2010s. The Prisoner ($40) is the archetype— and far better than many of its imitators.

One major wine trend over recent years has been what could be called a love affair with the distant past. Sometimes that means rediscovering older winemaking approaches sometimes, vintners rescuing for- gotten grape varieties from near extinction. These four wines are star examples of cutting-edge wine-makers using the best of ancient techniques to make brilliant and boundary-pushing bottles.

Orange Wines

When white grapes ferment on their skins, you get the amber hue and tannic notes of orange wines. In the early 2000s, this ancient approach was picked up by vintners in Italy&aposs Friuli region—the savory 2016 Dario Princic Sivi Pinot ($57) is one stellar example.

Pét-Nats

Gently sparkling, often cloudy with yeast particles, and usually lightly sweet, these quaffable bubblies burst back into view in the 2010s, first from France (pét-nat&aposs homeland) and now from everywhere𠅎ven Texas, with the lively 2019 William Chris Pétillant Naturel ($25).

Forgotten Grapes

Greek Malagousia, Spanish Godello, Italy&aposs Nascetta: these nearly extinct grapes have all been rediscovery success sto- ries, thanks to enterprising wine growers. Try the stony, fragrant 2019 Elvio Cogno Anas-Cëtta ($39) to see what drives the desire to save these varieties.

Historic Vineyards

Morgan Twain-Peterson has been at the forefront of a move- ment to save California&aposs historic vineyards from being plowed under. Visit historicvineyard society.org for a list of these sites, maybe while sipping a glass of his luscious 2019 Bedrock Old Vine Zinfandel ($28).

In the realm of agricultural products, vintners throughout the world have been at the forefront of environmental awareness.

Biodynamics

This organic, quasi-spiritual farming approach, which also produces some very good wines, arrived in the wine world in the late 1960s. But it took the magnetic Loire vintner Nicolas Joly&aposs founding of the Return to Terroir group in 2001 to bring broad awareness to it. His gorgeous, minerally 2016 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulພ de Serrant ($122) is arguably still the defining biodynamic wine.

Natural Wine

Wine&aposs most controversial topic in the past decade, natural wine&aposs credo is best described as "nothing added, nothing removed," meaning as little human intervention as possible. It&aposs a walking-on-the- cliff&aposs-edge approach when things go wrong, weirdness results. But when things go right, as with the 2019 Arianna Occhipinti SP68 Rosso ($36), full of intense wild-berry energy, the results can be brilliant.

Green Wineries

In 2006, Oregon&aposs Stoller Winery earned the first LEED Gold certification in the world, a ground- breaking step in the movement toward sustainable, eco-friendly winery structures𠅊 direction soon followed by many others. Plus, the winery&aposs 2018 Stoller Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($35), with its lovely raspberry fruit and silky texture, shows that doing ecological good is no impediment to making excellent wine.

Grüner Veltliner

Austrian Grüner shot to visibility in the early 2000s but then took a back seat to other hot new varieties. In the 2010s, it rose again. The best Grüners are world-class, and even entry-level wines from top producers, like the flinty, spicy 2019 Alzinger Ried Mühlpoint Federspiel ($29), can be sublime.

Albariño

Minerally, even saline, with flavors that shift with the vintages between riper pineapple and sharper grapefruit, Albariño is one of the world&aposs greatest seafood wines and, at this point, Spain&aposs signature white grape. The 2019 Pazo Señorans ($24)— floral, citrusy, vivid—is a benchmark example.

Chenin Blanc

Never has a grape so con- signed to the realm of "eh, whatever" so completely about-faced into being obsessed over by sommeliers and wine lovers alike. To see why, check out the 2019 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups Remus ($31), with its stony green-apple fruit, from France&aposs Loire Valley.

Assyrtiko

A wave of ambitious wine-makers changed the face of Greek wine in the 1990s, but it took the U.S. until the late 2000s to catch on to exactly how good those wines have become. Try the 2019 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko ($42) the tart citrus flavors contain a hint of seaside salinity. You&aposll be a convert.

Dry Riesling

No, Riesling is not new. But U.S. awareness of the fact that it is not always sweet sure is, ditto that dry Riesling is one of the most versatile wines with food, ever. Head to Germany for affordable bottles from great produc- ers, like the taut, focused 2019 Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken ($28).

Raúl Pérez

No winemaker in Spain has drawn more acclaim in recent years than Raúl Pérez. From his home base in Bierzo, he makes wine throughout northwest Spain to Portugal and beyond, working winemaking magic with Spanish varieties such as Albariño, Godello, Menc໚, and more. His 2018 Raúl Pérez Ultreia Saint Jacques ($20), made from the Menc໚ grape, is one of the best values in wine, period.

Ntsiki Biyela

A college scholarship led Ntsiki Biyela, who grew up in the small village of KwaZulu-Natal, to study winemaking that led to a part-time job at a winery and a post at Stellekaya in Stellenbosch as the first Black woman winemaker in South Africa. There, her wines began to win awards, and today, she runs her own brand, Aslina seek out the cedary, cassis-rich 2019 Aslina Cabernet Sauvignon ($30).

Rolando Herrera

Rolando Herrera makes excellent wine, and he also embodies the American dream. After emigrating from Mexico as a teenager, he got a job as a vineyard worker at Stag&aposs Leap Wine Cellars soon, he was cellar master, and soon after that, he was a winemaker. Today, he owns his own winery, Mi Sueño to taste his work, seek out the lemon-creamy 2017 Mi Sueño Los Carneros Chardonnay ($42).

Sebastián Zuccardi

Think Argentine Malbec has to be big and heavy? Sebastián Zuccardi thinks otherwise. Zuccardi has pushed his family&aposs winery toward using high-altitude vineyards, giving a newfound freshness to their wines, and engaged in exhaustive vineyard studies to allow for distinctive single-vineyard reds. The 2019 Zuccardi Concreto Malbec ($40), floral and peppery, gives a sense of his vision.

Cristiana Tiberio

Abruzzo may be Italy&aposs least known but most exciting wine region one reason for that is Cristiana Tiberio. Her wines have become wine list must-haves in the past few years, particularly her long-aging, single-vineyard Fonte Canale Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo. That wine is pricey, but her basic, citrus-scented 2019 Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo ($20) is also superb and a steal.

Andréa and Robin Mcbride

Here&aposs a fairy-tale: Half sisters Andrບ and Robin McBride grew up separately in Marlborough, New Zealand, and Monterey, California when they met, they found a mutual interest in winemaking. What&aposs no fairy-tale is making it in a business dominated by white men as two Black women: That&aposs where talent, ambition, and incredible drive come in. Seek out their lively 2019 Black Girl Magic Rosé ($20).

Today in Champagne, there are more women chefs des caves and CEOs than ever before, and that&aposs partly thanks to groups such as La Transmission Femmes en Champagne. As Anne Malassagne of Champagne A.R. Lenoble, one of the group&aposs cofounders, says, "I took over our estate from my father in 1993, [and] I had to fight for many years to acquire legitimacy and to gain credibility. It seemed obvious to me that I had a responsibility to help other women in Champagne." She&aposs joined in La Transmission by Vitalie Taittinger, co-owner of Champagne Taittinger Maggie Henriquez, CEO of Champagne Krug and many others. Check out their organization at la-transmission-champagne.com, possibly while sipping a glass of the minerally NV Champagne A.R. Lenoble Rosé Terroirs Chouilly-Bisseuil ($63)—an inspiring wine, for sure.

If there&aposs one stylistic trend that has marked the past seven or eight years, it&aposs a turn away from high-alcohol, super-ripe wines—red or white—toward lighter, more savory styles. Cooler-climate regions earlier harvesting renewed attention paid to wines like򠯪ujolais, once out of fashion for its lightness, and classic Napa Valley producers known more for balance than massiveness. well. Elegance is in, as these four paradigm-shifting categories amply demonstrate. Read More.


The 2021 Wine Lover&rsquos Guide

The past two decades have seen vast changes in the world of wine. Before 2000, the classics were clear: classified Bordeaux, grand cru Burgundy, top Champagnes, Napa Valley Cabernet, a few others. Now, overlooked grapes like Chenin Blanc are standards, volcanic terroirs are hot spots (literally, for Mount Etna), natural wine provokes passionate debate, and many winemakers well below legal age in 2000 have become top talents in the field. So while the old benchmarks are still vital𠅍on&apost turn down Pétrus if someone hands you a glass—here are the regions, grapes, and trends helping to define the new wine world. Seek them out: They&aposll tell you about what wine is today and where it&aposs headed𠅊nd they also happen to be delicious. —Ray Isle

Mount Etna, Sicily

Make wine on an active volcano? Great idea, if you&aposre after the particular character that volcanic soils give to wine (up until the thing erupts, of course). Etna is one of Italian wine&aposs recent success stories, producing aromatic, detailed reds and stony whites unlike anything else from Sicily—or from Italy at all for that matter. Passopisciaro, an early star, remains so on the strength of wines like its ruby-hued, red currant–rich 2018 Passopisciaro Passorosso ($39).

Bekaa Valley, Lebanon

Lebanon&aposs wine culture is ancient, but American awareness of it has only just started to rise. About time: the Bekaa Valley is an ideal place to grow grapes, with warm days, cool nights, and rocky limestone soils. Start with the 2017 Domaine des Tourelles Red ($20), its succulent black currant and mint notes wrapped up in fine-grained tannins, and then explore other names like Ixsir, Château Kefraya, Château Ksara, Château Marsyas, and of course the groundbreaking Chateau Musar.

The Rocks District, Oregon

If there&aposs an award for most appropriately named wine region, the Rocks District wins it. The surface of this subsection of the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley AVA is covered in fist-size stones. But give Syrah vines a chance to take root and you&aposll get magic in return— black-peppery, powerful, savory reds. Buty Winery blends that Syrah with Cabernet Sauvignon for its alluringly spicy 2016 Buty Rediviva of the Stones ($60).

Sta. Rita Hills, California

The first significant vineyard was planted here in 1971, but budding awareness of how great its Pinot Noirs could be hit in the early 2000s, and now its wines are cool-climate benchmarks. Try the 2016 Brewer-Clifton Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($40) to taste the brambly wild berries and faint salinity that characterize these wines.

Georgia

Archaeological findings near Georgia&aposs capital city of Tbilisi show wine being produced here nearly 8,000 years ago on the other hand, U.S. awareness of Georgian wines dates more to, say, 2010. Traditionally made in huge clay qvevri, these skin-contact whites (i.e., orange wines) and vivid reds thrilled sommeliers when they started to appear here. Track down the savory, amber-hued 2019 Orgo Dila-O Rkatsiteli-Mtsvane ($17) to see why.

Sierra De Gredos, Spain

Mountainous and austere, the Sierra de Gredos region west of Madrid started to gain acclaim 10 years or so ago as a source for gorgeous cool-climate Grenache, as young vintners took inspiration from France&aposs legendary Château Rayas to focus on the variety&aposs transparency and grace. The 2019 Comando G La Bruja de Rozas ($30) is characteristic, with its translucent ruby hue and herb-scented wild strawberry flavors.

Santa Cruz Mountains, California

The Santa Cruz Mountains have a storied winemaking history, but it seems only in recent years that wine lovers have realized how amazing the vineyards are. Whether the region does Pinot, Chardonnay, or Cabernet better is an open question, but there&aposs no doubt that the lemon blossom–scented 2017 Mount Eden Vineyards Estate Chardonnay ($60) is as ageworthy and complex as any great white Burgundy.

The Aubechampagne, France

For a long time, the Aube&aposs grapes were used as anonymous components in big-name brands. But recently, this region in Champagne&aposs far south has exploded into view. The Drappier family, which has been here since 1808, provides a great introduction to the Aube&aposs strengths with the Pinot Noir𠄽riven, nonvintage Champagne Drappier Carte d&aposOr ($49).

Swartland, South Africa

Lying along South Africa&aposs western coast, this region of rolling scrubland is also home to extraordinary old-vine Chenin Blancs, Syrahs, and field blends. The Swartland Revolution group of winemakers ignited awareness, pushing a more elegant style that thrilled wine lovers around the world. Founding members Andrea and Chris Mullineux&aposs 2017 Mullineux Syrah ($38), meaty and white peppery, speaks of the place brilliantly.

England

Fifty years ago, southern England was too cold to ripen Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the varieties used for great sparkling wine. Thirty years ago? Not true any- more. And about 15 years ago, English sparkling took off. The best have thrilling acidity and incredible focus, like the Nyetimber Classic Cuvພ Multi-Vintage ($55). It isn&apost inexpensive, but it rivals similarly priced wines from, you know, those French fellows across the Channel.

Once ignored, now powerhouses: these are today&aposs super-successes.

2001: Malbec

Argentina turned Malbec, once a forgotten variety, into one of the world&aposs most popular wines. The U.S. boom started around 2001. The peppery 2018 Catena Malbec ($24) makes it clear why.

2005: Prosecco

Champagne, elegant Prosecco, fun (and far less pricey). There&aposs the recipe for a jet-powered ascent in popularity. The citrusy NV Nino Franco Rustico ($21) is one of the best around.

2007: Grower Champagne

Grower Champagnes (single-estate, family- owned) hit wine lists in the mid-2000s and have never left. Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Rosé de Saignພ ($110) is a stellar example.

2008: Rosé

Imagine: Before the mid- 2000s, dry rosé wine was a thoroughly dead cat- egory. Whispering Angel Rosé ($25), its 2019 vintage juicy with wild strawberry notes, helped change that forever.

2014: Red Blends

Juicy, ripe, and often with a faint hint of sweetness, red blends stormed supermarket shelves in the 2010s. The Prisoner ($40) is the archetype— and far better than many of its imitators.

One major wine trend over recent years has been what could be called a love affair with the distant past. Sometimes that means rediscovering older winemaking approaches sometimes, vintners rescuing for- gotten grape varieties from near extinction. These four wines are star examples of cutting-edge wine-makers using the best of ancient techniques to make brilliant and boundary-pushing bottles.

Orange Wines

When white grapes ferment on their skins, you get the amber hue and tannic notes of orange wines. In the early 2000s, this ancient approach was picked up by vintners in Italy&aposs Friuli region—the savory 2016 Dario Princic Sivi Pinot ($57) is one stellar example.

Pét-Nats

Gently sparkling, often cloudy with yeast particles, and usually lightly sweet, these quaffable bubblies burst back into view in the 2010s, first from France (pét-nat&aposs homeland) and now from everywhere𠅎ven Texas, with the lively 2019 William Chris Pétillant Naturel ($25).

Forgotten Grapes

Greek Malagousia, Spanish Godello, Italy&aposs Nascetta: these nearly extinct grapes have all been rediscovery success sto- ries, thanks to enterprising wine growers. Try the stony, fragrant 2019 Elvio Cogno Anas-Cëtta ($39) to see what drives the desire to save these varieties.

Historic Vineyards

Morgan Twain-Peterson has been at the forefront of a move- ment to save California&aposs historic vineyards from being plowed under. Visit historicvineyard society.org for a list of these sites, maybe while sipping a glass of his luscious 2019 Bedrock Old Vine Zinfandel ($28).

In the realm of agricultural products, vintners throughout the world have been at the forefront of environmental awareness.

Biodynamics

This organic, quasi-spiritual farming approach, which also produces some very good wines, arrived in the wine world in the late 1960s. But it took the magnetic Loire vintner Nicolas Joly&aposs founding of the Return to Terroir group in 2001 to bring broad awareness to it. His gorgeous, minerally 2016 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulພ de Serrant ($122) is arguably still the defining biodynamic wine.

Natural Wine

Wine&aposs most controversial topic in the past decade, natural wine&aposs credo is best described as "nothing added, nothing removed," meaning as little human intervention as possible. It&aposs a walking-on-the- cliff&aposs-edge approach when things go wrong, weirdness results. But when things go right, as with the 2019 Arianna Occhipinti SP68 Rosso ($36), full of intense wild-berry energy, the results can be brilliant.

Green Wineries

In 2006, Oregon&aposs Stoller Winery earned the first LEED Gold certification in the world, a ground- breaking step in the movement toward sustainable, eco-friendly winery structures𠅊 direction soon followed by many others. Plus, the winery&aposs 2018 Stoller Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($35), with its lovely raspberry fruit and silky texture, shows that doing ecological good is no impediment to making excellent wine.

Grüner Veltliner

Austrian Grüner shot to visibility in the early 2000s but then took a back seat to other hot new varieties. In the 2010s, it rose again. The best Grüners are world-class, and even entry-level wines from top producers, like the flinty, spicy 2019 Alzinger Ried Mühlpoint Federspiel ($29), can be sublime.

Albariño

Minerally, even saline, with flavors that shift with the vintages between riper pineapple and sharper grapefruit, Albariño is one of the world&aposs greatest seafood wines and, at this point, Spain&aposs signature white grape. The 2019 Pazo Señorans ($24)— floral, citrusy, vivid—is a benchmark example.

Chenin Blanc

Never has a grape so con- signed to the realm of "eh, whatever" so completely about-faced into being obsessed over by sommeliers and wine lovers alike. To see why, check out the 2019 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups Remus ($31), with its stony green-apple fruit, from France&aposs Loire Valley.

Assyrtiko

A wave of ambitious wine-makers changed the face of Greek wine in the 1990s, but it took the U.S. until the late 2000s to catch on to exactly how good those wines have become. Try the 2019 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko ($42) the tart citrus flavors contain a hint of seaside salinity. You&aposll be a convert.

Dry Riesling

No, Riesling is not new. But U.S. awareness of the fact that it is not always sweet sure is, ditto that dry Riesling is one of the most versatile wines with food, ever. Head to Germany for affordable bottles from great produc- ers, like the taut, focused 2019 Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken ($28).

Raúl Pérez

No winemaker in Spain has drawn more acclaim in recent years than Raúl Pérez. From his home base in Bierzo, he makes wine throughout northwest Spain to Portugal and beyond, working winemaking magic with Spanish varieties such as Albariño, Godello, Menc໚, and more. His 2018 Raúl Pérez Ultreia Saint Jacques ($20), made from the Menc໚ grape, is one of the best values in wine, period.

Ntsiki Biyela

A college scholarship led Ntsiki Biyela, who grew up in the small village of KwaZulu-Natal, to study winemaking that led to a part-time job at a winery and a post at Stellekaya in Stellenbosch as the first Black woman winemaker in South Africa. There, her wines began to win awards, and today, she runs her own brand, Aslina seek out the cedary, cassis-rich 2019 Aslina Cabernet Sauvignon ($30).

Rolando Herrera

Rolando Herrera makes excellent wine, and he also embodies the American dream. After emigrating from Mexico as a teenager, he got a job as a vineyard worker at Stag&aposs Leap Wine Cellars soon, he was cellar master, and soon after that, he was a winemaker. Today, he owns his own winery, Mi Sueño to taste his work, seek out the lemon-creamy 2017 Mi Sueño Los Carneros Chardonnay ($42).

Sebastián Zuccardi

Think Argentine Malbec has to be big and heavy? Sebastián Zuccardi thinks otherwise. Zuccardi has pushed his family&aposs winery toward using high-altitude vineyards, giving a newfound freshness to their wines, and engaged in exhaustive vineyard studies to allow for distinctive single-vineyard reds. The 2019 Zuccardi Concreto Malbec ($40), floral and peppery, gives a sense of his vision.

Cristiana Tiberio

Abruzzo may be Italy&aposs least known but most exciting wine region one reason for that is Cristiana Tiberio. Her wines have become wine list must-haves in the past few years, particularly her long-aging, single-vineyard Fonte Canale Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo. That wine is pricey, but her basic, citrus-scented 2019 Trebbiano d&aposAbruzzo ($20) is also superb and a steal.

Andréa and Robin Mcbride

Here&aposs a fairy-tale: Half sisters Andrບ and Robin McBride grew up separately in Marlborough, New Zealand, and Monterey, California when they met, they found a mutual interest in winemaking. What&aposs no fairy-tale is making it in a business dominated by white men as two Black women: That&aposs where talent, ambition, and incredible drive come in. Seek out their lively 2019 Black Girl Magic Rosé ($20).

Today in Champagne, there are more women chefs des caves and CEOs than ever before, and that&aposs partly thanks to groups such as La Transmission Femmes en Champagne. As Anne Malassagne of Champagne A.R. Lenoble, one of the group&aposs cofounders, says, "I took over our estate from my father in 1993, [and] I had to fight for many years to acquire legitimacy and to gain credibility. It seemed obvious to me that I had a responsibility to help other women in Champagne." She&aposs joined in La Transmission by Vitalie Taittinger, co-owner of Champagne Taittinger Maggie Henriquez, CEO of Champagne Krug and many others. Check out their organization at la-transmission-champagne.com, possibly while sipping a glass of the minerally NV Champagne A.R. Lenoble Rosé Terroirs Chouilly-Bisseuil ($63)—an inspiring wine, for sure.

If there&aposs one stylistic trend that has marked the past seven or eight years, it&aposs a turn away from high-alcohol, super-ripe wines—red or white—toward lighter, more savory styles. Cooler-climate regions earlier harvesting renewed attention paid to wines like򠯪ujolais, once out of fashion for its lightness, and classic Napa Valley producers known more for balance than massiveness. well. Elegance is in, as these four paradigm-shifting categories amply demonstrate. Read More.


Watch the video: Εμφιάλωση κρασιού σε μπουκάλια bottling of wine με χειροποίητο μηχάνημα (July 2022).


Comments:

  1. Taneli

    I apologize, but in my opinion you admit the mistake. Enter we'll discuss. Write to me in PM, we will handle it.

  2. Ames

    It is remarkable, it is a valuable phrase

  3. Ashlin

    I think you are not right. I'm sure. I can prove it. Write in PM, we will talk.

  4. Aegelmaere

    This is a good idea. I am ready to support you.



Write a message